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Pulled a stupid move. Now I have to pay for it.

BeepBeepRR

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I was trying to fix the perpetual valve cover leak on the 383 I found out that one of the bolts was too short and not making it into the threads. So I pulled it out and stuck a piece of all thread in there to get the depth of how long the bolt was. Well here is where it all went south.

Vice grips on the all thread and spun it down till it bottomed out.. Mistake was going that extra turn and snapping the all thread off inside the head. Great stuff... Now I go to pull the valve cover off and see if I can get it out of there. Saw a guy on youtube take a small piece of copper tube same size as the hole and stuff it down there then he took a welder and ran the mig wire down inside the tube and built up a bead until it was above the head surface then he tack welded an old screw driver to it and spun it out. But I'm looking for an easier way to get it out.

The copper tube was used to protect the threads from the weld.
 
If you can get a reversable drill to the hole/area, a small left-handed drill bit might back it out. They've pulled me out of a pinch many times.
 
Any crappy auto parts store will sell bolt removers. Fits in a tap wrench and sort of has a left hand thread kinda shape. Drill a little hole in the broken theeaded rod and wind this in. It should come out. You have the benefit of this not being rust encrusted or stuck in there for some super high torque reason.
 
I've done the welded nut to a broken bolt thing before but never one down in the hole. I think I have a left hand threaded drill bit I will have to double check it. Think I am done trying to use nice bolts. Probably going to pick up some studs and nuts. Just re do them all while I'm there.
 
A small drill bit to use with the small EZ out, drill hole in the threaded rod, apply some liquid wrench, then try the EZ out.
 
Drill and tap would be my move. 1/4-20 is too small IMO to try and build up. That All Thread is soft, grease up the drill bit and tap. You’ll have it fixed up in 15 minutes or less.

Get a set of thread chasers for next time.
 
I've done the welded nut to a broken bolt thing before but never one down in the hole. I think I have a left hand threaded drill bit I will have to double check it. Think I am done trying to use nice bolts. Probably going to pick up some studs and nuts. Just re do them all while I'm there.


ARP makes a nice stud-nut setup for valve covers. Their design makes it easy to start the nuts and not to drop one.

Bryand
 
Drill and tap would be my move. 1/4-20 is too small IMO to try and build up. That All Thread is soft, grease up the drill bit and tap. You’ll have it fixed up in 15 minutes or less.

Get a set of thread chasers for next time.
When I put it in there it didn't dawn on me that the all thread was a softer metal. Until I broke it lol. That's when I realized it was a dumb *** move. I'll get out there today and try and get it out.
 
Allthread is the zip tie of the bolt world and too soft, get an actual stud or cut off a better bolt.
 
If this was your first dumb move, be prepared, there will be more to follow! Drill and tap would be my fix also. Good luck. ruffcut
 
If it’s not to deep you can 3/32 stainless 309L Rod. If your able to see it you can strike and pull Away building it up untill you got a nub. Then weld a nut in and back it out. The flux flows into the threads. It won’t destroy them.


If you drill it and hammer the easy out in take a rose bud and heat it first. This will take it out with no effort.
 
You break something harder off in there you'll have problems. Drill and tap it.
 
I feel your pain. Yesterday I was torquing the last exhaust manifold stud on the wifes Kia Optima turbo, and the exhaust manifold bolt snapped off below the head surface.
Today, I'm considering using brass shim like the tube you mentioned to protect the threads and help align the nut to weld on because I can't really see the bolt hole that well as it is on the back of the engine. If that don't work, I will have to pull the head to drill it out.
 
Save the broken piece in your tool box as a reminder.:D That's what I do. one more piece to the pile.
The tube idea modified. Put a short 1"piece of the tube in the hole to center the drill and not damage threads. If you need to enlarge it you've a starter hole.
 
You break something harder off in there you'll have problems. Drill and tap it.
Did that! In a buttery soft Aluminum VW Beetle head no less. What works after that is a carbide burr in a dremel. Hogged it all out with plenty of room for a helicoil.
 
When you get squared away.....
What I did was get some 1/4x20 set screws, and locktited them in the head. They are automatically grade eight, available in any good hardware store, and lots of lengths available. Then, instead of washers, I just use homemade load spreaders and hardware store nuts.
The set screws length can be adjusted for whatever covers you want to use.

20210214_134831.jpg 20210214_134822.jpg
Edit: these are the paper thin moroso gold covers, with a coat of Mopar turquoise. The spreaders are almost mandatory!
 
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