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Valvetrain clatter/noise

PRHeads said:
I meant the full length of it, maybe next to a straight one.

That’s a factory pushrod.
They’re actually “rods”, as in solid, instead of tubing which is what the aftermarket will usually be.
Click to expand...
Knew about the solids being factory. Never
saw one with serrations. There are other
solids that don't have those marks in the mix.
It looks like I've got pushrods from two or
three different engines.
I've got the worst bent pushrod back in
under a rocker in a different location.
Going to see if I can duplicate the
problem. Don't have the shaft tightened
down yet. The dinner bell rang.
 
Last edited:
If you can try to see how much you can depress the valve. I’ve seen Pushrods bend because someone used the wrong stem seals. If the top of the seal where the stem goes thru is too thick it can cause a bind. Maybe this builder was using seals from a studebaker or something that calls for a really thick top. I used to work in a large rebuilder shop and we kept tons of different spec seals. You would be surprised what I’ve seen shops do to save a Buck.
 
Gunner1 said:
If you can try to see how much you can depress the valve. I’ve seen Pushrods bend because someone used the wrong stem seals. If the top of the seal where the stem goes thru is too thick it can cause a bind. Maybe this builder was using seals from a studebaker or something that calls for a really thick top. I used to work in a large rebuilder shop and we kept tons of different spec seals. You would be surprised what I’ve seen shops do to save a Buck.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I'll check them.
 
I'm using the Summit 6401 cam that has a .488 exhaust lift. No problem with stock valve guide boss height and using positive lock valve seals. (I cut the bosses for these seals but not the height.)
20160514_152418.jpg
 
Gunner1 said:
If you can try to see how much you can depress the valve. I’ve seen Pushrods bend because someone used the wrong stem seals. If the top of the seal where the stem goes thru is too thick it can cause a bind. Maybe this builder was using seals from a studebaker or something that calls for a really thick top. I used to work in a large rebuilder shop and we kept tons of different spec seals. You would be surprised what I’ve seen shops do to save a Buck.
Click to expand...
Thanks,
I guess the same holds true for pushrods also
It's quite evident these were pulled from
the spare parts pile.
 
khryslerkid said:
I'm using the Summit 6401 cam that has a .488 exhaust lift. No problem with stock valve guide boss height and using positive lock valve seals. (I cut the bosses for these seals but not the height.)
View attachment 1264622
Click to expand...
I am putting in a Isky 292 Mega with .505 lift. Thanks for the info.
 
PRHeads said:
Check the amount of lifter preload with the current pushrods...... buy new pushrods in a length that will improve that situation if deemed necessary.

One of the old hollow pushrods can be sacrificed to make it an adjustable checking tool.
Click to expand...
The way I measured preload is to take a straight
edge and set it flat on the valve cover
mounting surface and set it against the two
pushrods of the cylinder in question and mark
the pushrods with a sharpie. Then, back off
the rocker shaft bolts until the pushrod spins
freely but has zero vertical movement and
mark it again. Then measure the distance
between the marks. No checking tool needed
to measure preload.
So far, on all I've measured they've been in the
.030 range.
This of course is setting the the lifter on
the heel of the cam.
I'm almost positive now that the builder
(for some unknown reason) stuck a bunch
of questionable pushrods in the engine.
There is no coil bind, no collapsed or
flattened lifters, and the wear pattern
on all lobes of the cam are identical.
None of the pushrods were bent more
than 1/8", which also reinforces the
extremely used pushrod scenario.
 
Last edited:
Mike67 said:
Which valvetrain components do you have? Im having the same issue almost like a lifter tick. I have the Comp ProMag rockers which Comp says approximately .030 side clearance. Im thinking that is the noise Im hearing , I just dont know how much lateral movement those actually have during operation.
Click to expand...
My apologies for not replying sooner..
I have stock components. Stamped steel
rockers, 9.317 pushrods, TRW (Speed Pro
lifters). Bear in mind these components
are 26 years old and have been just
recently put to the test. The rocker shafts
I assume are original to a set of 452's
mated to a '68 block.I've ordered a new
set of 9.317 pushrods if nothing else
other than to set a benchmark for retesting.
 
Last edited:
What does that .030” preload become if you swap in a bent pushrod in place of a straight one?

My guess is...... you found the source of the noise.
 
PRHeads said:
What does that .030” preload become if you swap in a bent pushrod in place of a straight one?

My guess is...... you found the source of the noise.
Click to expand...
Thanks PRHeads.
Just what we're going to do. Found something
else that may raise some concerns. It looks
like the tops of some of the valves have been
ground off. Going to check the valve heights.
 
Hopefully that wasn't someone's way of dealing with a few sunken seats?
 
I would straight edge across the retainers to check for valve spring installed height.
 
The top of the retainer is not an indicator for installed height.
Springs can be(and often are) shimmed to equalize the “as installed” heights.

Grinding valve tips is a normal practice for evening them up....... which is why there is a tip grinding attachment on most valve refacers.

Unless there has been an excessive amount removed from the tip, it’s usually not a problem....... unless the top of the valve is no longer square to the stem.
 
1STMP said:
Thanks PRHeads.
Just what we're going to do. Found something
else that may raise some concerns. It looks
like the tops of some of the valves have been
ground off. Going to check the valve heights.
Click to expand...

1STMP said:
Did that. All valve stem tips are even.
Click to expand...
Perfect. That was quick.
 
My thought was if they sunk a valve by grinding the seat or valve face, the retainer would be raised over the non sunk valves. The spring would be shimmed on the bottom but the retainer height would indicate a sunk seat.
 
My thought was if they sunk a valve by grinding the seat or valve face, the retainer would be raised over the non sunk valves. The spring would be shimmed on the bottom but the retainer height would indicate a sunk seat.
Click to expand...

In that scenario, what is the acceptable limit of retainer height difference/variation before a seat replacement is “required”?
 
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