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Installing 1.03 bars with 20 degree clocking

Beekeeper

It’s a disease without a cure!
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Has anyone installed 1.03 bars in their ride?
Trying to figure out what position the lower control arm and control arm height adjuster socket needs to be in when installing the heavier 1.03 torsion bars.
want to set to factory ride height and not have the adjustment bolts sticking down excessively.
The whole front suspension is completely rebuilt its my 69’ bee any help is greatly appreciated.
 
The new bars make for a firmer ride, they don't change anything about the installation.
 
The new bars make for a firmer ride, they don't change anything about the installation.
Thanks for the info guys! my thinking was is that it wouldn’t take as much on the adjustment bolts to get it to ride height with the heavier bars. I will proceed with the factory installation.
 
Thanks for the info guys! my thinking was is that it wouldn’t take as much on the adjustment bolts to get it to ride height with the heavier bars. I will proceed with the factory installation.
If it changes anything slightly, that Hemi will take up the slack.
 
I have 1.03" bars in all 3 of my cars. I really don't think it is possible to get them installed 1 flat off.
 
Socket is 60* to each flat, no way they're going in anywhere else but OE postion... straight bars or properly clocked bars.
 
with the suspension fully relaxed and the tension bolt completely loose the bars go in without removing the A arm bump stop
 
Might help to disconnect or loosen the shocks too. Last time I removed one of my 1.03 PST bars I backed off the adjuster until it was loose. Went back to it a few minutes later and it was tight again. Loosened it again and a few minutes later it was tight again. Went through this about 3 or 4 times before the bar stopped relaxing, the adjuster stayed loose and the bar would come out fairly easily.
 
Might help to disconnect or loosen the shocks too. Last time I removed one of my 1.03 PST bars I backed off the adjuster until it was loose. Went back to it a few minutes later and it was tight again. Loosened it again and a few minutes later it was tight again. Went through this about 3 or 4 times before the bar stopped relaxing, the adjuster stayed loose and the bar would come out fairly easily.
No shocks installed at this time
 
Many years ago I did a "McFly" impression on my Duster when installing thicker bars. I had too much droop on the lower arms, didn't know they needed to be in the droop position with the upper/spindle/lower still hooked to together. The lower arm was undone from the other two pieces when I slid the bar in then added the rest. Could not understand why it sat like a 4X. Now I know better. "Think McFLY, Think"!
 
You don't happen to have a set of bars from PST's first run? This was several years ago now, but they were not clocked correctly. 20 degrees off if I remember correctly?
 
I had to remove the bump stops too in addition to loosening my shocks. Bars just barely aligned with the hex recess at full, relaxed droop and slid in by hand without raising the control arm any.

I’m not finding the 1.03 bars to be harsh at all in my 66 Hemi Sat. Maybe a bit firmer than my stock 67 GTX but very subtle. Good choice.
 
Did not have any issues installing my PST 1.03. Full droop, bump stop removed. The biggest fight came via the polyurethane dust boots!!!!
 
You don't happen to have a set of bars from PST's first run? This was several years ago now, but they were not clocked correctly. 20 degrees off if I remember correctly?
I made certain to ask about the clocking on the bars the early run was 0 clocking.
They assured me that has been corrected to 20 degree clocking and these bars are clocked for sure.
 
Did not have any issues installing my PST 1.03. Full droop, bump stop removed. The biggest fight came via the polyurethane dust boots!!!!

Yep i got the standard rubber seals for that exact reason!
 
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