I’m confused after looking through threads regarding kick down linkage adjustment. On my 62’ Fury with 361 and Carter AFB. Do you adjust the linkage so that the selector lever on the transmission is all the way back at WOT - or partially back?
Kick down Adjustment
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Here are the instructions from the Factory Service Manual.
Wietse
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There are a lot of topics about this but this is the most simple way of explaining:
-Set & hold carb at WOT.
-Push kick down linkage all the way back and hold in position.
- Adjust the slot such that with the carb at WOT there is about 1/16 - 1/8" between the back side of the throttle linkage pin and the end of the slot.
This way you have max. kickdown pressure at the transmission and avoid binding on both carb and transmission valve & linkage.
-Set & hold carb at WOT.
-Push kick down linkage all the way back and hold in position.
- Adjust the slot such that with the carb at WOT there is about 1/16 - 1/8" between the back side of the throttle linkage pin and the end of the slot.
This way you have max. kickdown pressure at the transmission and avoid binding on both carb and transmission valve & linkage.
I think you are describing a later model 727 than mine, but if I am understanding correctly by leaving a slight gap between the kickdown rod and the throttle you are in essence setting it to not quite push the kickdown lever fully to the rear? Almost but not quite?
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That's what the FMS says to do on the early pushbutton trans.
I tried that and I had to keep adjusting it until I started to notice a difference. Took quite a few tries.
What worked better for me on my '62 was to unhook the leaver from the carb. With the carb linkage on the idle stop (make sure its not on the choke high idle) push the trans leaver (rod) back easily until you feel a little resistance. You're just taking the play out of it not engaging the pump spring. Line the adjustable end up with the ball on the carb linkage. If it's too short screw the end out until it matches. Too long screw the end inward to shorten the rod. This will get you in the ball park. Make sure you have enough threads still in the rod if you're lengthening.
Take it out for a drive on a level road and just apply even pressure on the go pedal and watch where it shifts. If it shifts too quick from one gear to the next, lengthen the rod maybe one turn at a time. If it shifts too long between gears, shorten the rod one turn at a time and drive it again until you get what you want. Two turns can make a big difference when you're close to having it right.
The pushbutton trans doesn't really have a kick down function (passing gear) like the newer trans. They will downshift if the second gear speed is low enough for it to shift from third to second. There is a built-in protection for this not to happen if the vehicle is going too fast. It's explained in the '62 FMS.
I played with it some today but it rained all day so I haven’t tried it out yet, hopefully tomorrow. I have it adjusted right now about as far to the rear as I can get while keeping a few threads in the rod. Even at that the lever at the trans can be pushed a bit further back by hand. Definitely not binding.
Wietse
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That should work well, little different design maybe from later model, but the idea is to get max. kick down pressure when the carb goes to WOT.
You set it for this now, so once the weather clear, try it.
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In post #2 I put the link to the factory service manual instructions on how to adjust it. Just have to read the link...
Wietse
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On the later TF transmission there is similar instructions for setting the kick down linkage.
But it comes down to WOT is max. kick down pressure.
For people who drive with after market carb this setup does not work at all most of the times due to differences in carb linkage geometry and location compare to stock carb.
OP can try either way and see what provides best functioning for his application.
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I don't know if the AFB was factory in 62.
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I don't believe the OP has a Bell Crank. The 361 used just one rod from the carb to the trans leaver.
Yup, just the rod, threaded at the carb end.
finally got the try it out today. 1-2 shift seems about right but 2-3 happens pretty quick. Still no downshift from 3-2 WOT when cruising at 45mph. I’ll see if I can get another turn or two out of the rod tomorrow and try it again.
Wietse
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What rear end ratio do you have?
If you have a low ratio (3.73 - 4.10) there is likely already so much pressure provided from the governor (due to the high rpm) that it will no longer allow the down shift at that speed.
Governor itself also could be questioned, original and correct for the application, or aftermarket or modified?
If it still does not downshift at 45mph, try lower speeds.
3:23 gears. Don’t think anything has been modified.
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Not going to happen. The pushbutton trans isn't the same as the newer 727 with the throttle leaver and kickdown combined. You have to be going a lot slower for the 3-2 downshift. Or you can do what I do when I want second gear...
Love your icons! So you are basically saying that there is no passing gear at normal highway speeds?
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You can get a 3-2 kickdown at that speed by lengthening the rod but then your shift pattern changes. You can't have both. So get a good shift pattern and grab the "second" button when you want to beat on it
There might be some internal mods that would get it to preform like the newer 727s but those secrets I'm not up on. A manual valve body is what most go with that want to beat on them but then you're pushing buttons all day while driving.
I haven't read it in awhile but the 1962 FSM has a good write up on the '62 727. '62 was the first year for the all aluminum 727 with a couple of changes from '61. It's worth the read.
Wietse
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Are you talking about the '70's and later models that have the partial throttle kickdown?
Or is there another difference between say a early '60 and late '60 models?
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