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Opinions on 4 links

Mhad2480

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I'm looking into a 4 link rear for my '66 Belvedere. I'm considering the Strret Lynx from Reilly motorsports, the one from Martz chassis and the QA-1. Anyone with any experience or 1st hand knowledge of these set ups please chime in. I have looked on here and the most relevant thread was from 2015. Does anyone have more recent experiences with any of these?
 
What's your intended use for the car? The factory design with some careful modifications will be fine for hot street use, and will save you a ton of cash.
Are you drag racing the car? Circuit work?
 
If it's a drag car, get the good advice on the adjustment. They can be difficult. Even the Cal Trac's seem like they can be. A ladder bar may be simpler. My tube Arrow had ladder bars. The chassis builder told me the preload, mid level on the shocks up & down. It left hard, straight and level, very consistent. Just my experience. My '65 Coronet took several leaf spring combination tries to really work. But I did get one right. My '66 Satellite is a work in progress.
 
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I bought a set of 4 link for my street driven cuda because they look cool. I wish I hadn't because they squeak and the ride isn't near as nice as leafs. Same with the coil-overs up front. Torsion bars give a far better ride.
 
What's your intended use for the car? The factory design with some careful modifications will be fine for hot street use, and will save you a ton of cash.
Are you drag racing the car? Circuit work?
I guess I should've included that from the start. It will be a street car, little to no track use. I've had a few mopars before and have always been limited as far as tire size by the leaf springs. I plan to relocate the leafs and do a mini tub. I know the stock suspension can be tuned but I was thinking about coilovers and a four link to dial in the ride height where I want it and hook better.
 
I bought a set of 4 link for my street driven cuda because they look cool. I wish I hadn't because they squeak and the ride isn't near as nice as leafs. Same with the coil-overs up front. Torsion bars give a far better ride.
What set up did you go with?
 
For a street car with very limited track time, a stock type leaf is practical. If tire size is the issue, move the springs in. The offset hangers give a bit, or into the frame rails. Into the frame rails is a bit more complicated, but does the trick when combined with mini tubbing. Many leaf spring options are available. The ESPO leafs on my Satellite were excellent for both street & strip with the power/torque of a 500" motor. A four bar may seem kool, but may be a pain. Shock selection may be complicated. The KYB's that were on my Satellite felt evey crack in the pavement. I switched to CE drag shocks and they were MUCH smoother on the street. Who would guess that.
 
For a street car with very limited track time, a stock type leaf is practical. If tire size is the issue, move the springs in. The offset hangers give a bit, or into the frame rails. Into the frame rails is a bit more complicated, but does the trick when combined with mini tubbing. Many leaf spring options are available. The ESPO leafs on my Satellite were excellent for both street & strip with the power/torque of a 500" motor. A four bar may seem kool, but may be a pain. Shock selection may be complicated. The KYB's that were on my Satellite felt evey crack in the pavement. I switched to CE drag shocks and they were MUCH smoother on the street. Who would guess that.
I plan to use the spring relocation kit & mini tubs from USCT since I've heard good things about them overall. http://store.uscartool.com/66-70-B-body-Plymouth-Mini-tub-and-Rear-Spring-Relocation-Combo_p_99.html
My thoughts as far as going to the 4 link is that I'd hate to go through the whole process of moving the springs and tubbing and then be unimpressed by the outcome. I guess changing the leafs and shocks is economical enough that if I'm not happy I can move on.
 
I'm looking into a 4 link rear for my '66 Belvedere. I'm considering the Strret Lynx from Reilly motorsports, the one from Martz chassis and the QA-1. Anyone with any experience or 1st hand knowledge of these set ups please chime in. I have looked on here and the most relevant thread was from 2015. Does anyone have more recent experiences with any of these?
The one issue with 66-67 B-body is wheel well clearance. Even mini tubed I believe 29.5x10.5 on 15" rim at 4.5 offset is about it. (Although measure your particular setup. 29.5 might be on the tall side. And I've heard some have gone a little wider tire with custom offset rims.) With today's compounds. It should be enough tire for street.

Personally I would look to SS springs with a snubber. Making the shocks the adjustable. That can handle up to 650 HP. Maybe more. Cheaper. Easier. And more importantly likely a better street ride. Leave 4-link coil over stuff for a Pro Street setup. Which typically is at least 50% strip use. Fuel tank removal for fuel cell. Ect.

JMO.
 
To me' as a life long suspension guy most of the aftermarket stuff has little merit. Lots of $ for what? Leaf springs can be made to handle or hook at the strip with little effort. On the front adjustable upper arms give a little more range. But most of the time (especially on the street) it isn't necessary. The cost per performance increase of the tube front ends is insane. In my opinion a total waste of money. A dedicated drag car can use Ladder bars or a real 4 link and good shocks as a improvement. Want to lighten a drag car up front? Trim up the K frame. For handling? Boxed stock components, stiffer torsion and anti roll bars, good shocks, good tire and wheel package. That's where the improvements lie.
 
The one issue with 66-67 B-body is wheel well clearance. Even mini tubed I believe 29.5x10.5 on 15" rim at 4.5 offset is about it. (Although measure your particular setup. 29.5 might be on the tall side. And I've heard some have gone a little wider tire with custom offset rims.) With today's compounds. It should be enough tire for street.

Personally I would look to SS springs with a snubber. Making the shocks the adjustable. That can handle up to 650 HP. Maybe more. Cheaper. Easier. And more importantly likely a better street ride. Leave 4-link coil over stuff for a Pro Street setup. Which typically is at least 50% strip use. Fuel tank removal for fuel cell. Ect.

JMO.

I quit using the snubber early on. I worked on the leaf combination and the shocks. Turned out that the shocks were a lot more important than I realized at the time. I duplicated the 002-003 SS leaf on my '65 main leaf. With the Gabrial 3 way adjustable shocks ( the version that had more rebound control), the car left hard straight and level. My experience with the snubber, it made the car bounce, porpoise. That was my '65 Coronet which evolved from low 12's to 10.50. The proper SS spring for your car will be good.
 
The one issue with 66-67 B-body is wheel well clearance. Even mini tubed I believe 29.5x10.5 on 15" rim at 4.5 offset is about it. (Although measure your particular setup. 29.5 might be on the tall side. And I've heard some have gone a little wider tire with custom offset rims.) With today's compounds. It should be enough tire for street.

Personally I would look to SS springs with a snubber. Making the shocks the adjustable. That can handle up to 650 HP. Maybe more. Cheaper. Easier. And more importantly likely a better street ride. Leave 4-link coil over stuff for a Pro Street setup. Which typically is at least 50% strip use. Fuel tank removal for fuel cell. Ect.

JMO.
So, after doing some more research and waffling back & forth I think I'll try new leaf springs with a relocation kit and some adjustable socks. With the buy in cost being so much less and others people's results, it's definitely worth a try. Any advice on the springs to try? 2,800, 3,200 or 3,400 lb weight rating? I'll call Mancini for more advice, just want to collect as much info as possible.
 
Mhad, make sure you know what your car really weighs and a close approximation of the torque you have. I made a major mistake by putting some 3300# SS springs on my Satellite that scales at about 3650# & has a 512" motor. Those SS springs were not able to handle the torque I have. I had to add a leaf on each side & try to get close to the spring package I built for my '65 Coronet back in the day. A good shock that easy to adjust is important.
 
What suspension is on the car now? Street/Strip? Or all track? Power, weight, ET expectation?
Doug
 
Mhad, make sure you know what your car really weighs and a close approximation of the torque you have. I made a major mistake by putting some 3300# SS springs on my Satellite that scales at about 3650# & has a 512" motor. Those SS springs were not able to handle the torque I have. I had to add a leaf on each side & try to get close to the spring package I built for my '65 Coronet back in the day. A good shock that easy to adjust is important.

Solid advice, thanks. I'll take the car to a scale before I purchase anything. I was thinking about going with the QA1 single adjustable socks for the rear. As far as torque, I haven't dyno'd the car, so I'd have to just estimate. Built 493 stroker should be good for 550ish + ft/lbs though.

What suspension is on the car now? Street/Strip? Or all track? Power, weight, ET expectation?
Doug

It's mostly stock still. Leaf springs which I'm sure are past their prime & air shocks installed by a previous owner. Front is all stock. It will be a street car with little, if any track time as there are none in my area.
 
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I can update you on this soon- recently purchased a 67 charger w a 496 going in soon. i ended up purchasing a Qa1 kit ( due in 2 weeks i believe) as everything under the car was worn out and in need of replacement. As i began to total up the costs for new front and rear, the difference wasnt too far off and i do like the adjustability factor. It will be difficult to determine how much difference over stock or even an upgraded UCA/SS rear set up would be as the car was never equipped. Right now it wallows, is mushy and has all those classic late 60s characteristics. My goal is to have something with a bit more modern feel.
 
I like 4 links
images?q=tbn:ANd9GcStw34wKxO3sx5r4odUsCyNuCMWTJahQYDTqg&usqp=CAU.jpg
great with eggs.
 
I can update you on this soon- recently purchased a 67 charger w a 496 going in soon. i ended up purchasing a Qa1 kit ( due in 2 weeks i believe) as everything under the car was worn out and in need of replacement. As i began to total up the costs for new front and rear, the difference wasnt too far off and i do like the adjustability factor. It will be difficult to determine how much difference over stock or even an upgraded UCA/SS rear set up would be as the car was never equipped. Right now it wallows, is mushy and has all those classic late 60s characteristics. My goal is to have something with a bit more modern feel.
What level kit did you buy? I was just looking at those last night. My car has the same symptoms although the front end had some new components put in when the engine was swapped. Even on the highway when I romp on the gas at speed, it wants to wander quite a bit. I want to start with the rear and get that dialed in a bit to see the difference that makes before I start making changes to the front.
 
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