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1967 Plymouth GTX Clutch problem

Pops1967GTX

Pops1967GTX

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Numerous attempts to adjust my Borg & Beck 11’ , 18 spline Clutch. I can get the proper free play but pedal will not return Without help. Cold throwout bearing adjustment - pressure plate the fly wheel is .045 , book is call for a .060 feeler gauge. Adjustment at rod is all the way to the end.
Clutch plate looks good. Fingers on pressure plate also…
 
Is the over center spring on the under dash pedal linkage?
 
Is it one of those situations where if you raise the pedal slightly with your toe, it springs on up to the bumper stop? Mine does that and I have too reduce the free play until it’s just past that point so it will spring on up. But I have minimal free play at the top and lots of travel at the bottom before the clutch starts to grab.

But sounds like you ran out of adjustment before you could reduce the free play to where the pedal will break over. Sounds like possibly the flywheel has been machined below minimum thickness, or the clutch fingers have been adjusted too low, or the fork is incorrect or incorrectly set, or linkage excessively worn or some combination. I’ll be curious to see what you come up with.
 
AR67GTX said:
Is it one of those situations where if you raise the pedal slightly with your toe, it springs on up to the bumper stop? Mine does that and I have too reduce the free play until it’s just past that point so it will spring on up. But I have minimal free play at the top and lots of travel at the bottom before the clutch starts to grab.

But sounds like you ran out of adjustment before you could reduce the free play to where the pedal will break over. Sounds like possibly the flywheel has been machined below minimum thickness, or the clutch fingers have been adjusted too low, or the fork is incorrect or incorrectly set, or linkage excessively worn or some combination. I’ll be curious to see what you come up with.
Click to expand...
yes must use my toe for return...

I called Jamie @ Passion. Very knowledgeable, went through a few checks that he suggested. He thinks Possible pressure plate problem. Previous owner replaced Clutch years ago. Thinking of just pulling trans and doing a good inspection...
 
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The FSM says 5/32 of clearance at the rod to fork which will give one inch at the pedal. Try that. You do have the clutch arm to bell spring on?
 
pnora said:
The FSM says 5/32 of clearance at the rod to fork which will give one inch at the pedal. Try that. You do have the clutch arm to bell spring on?
Click to expand...
Yes, had a spare and replaced, is the rod length 5'inches?...
 
A friend with a 69 Hemi Roadrunner has the same problem and he runs around with the pedal hanging below the break over and probably popping up when he hits a bump. It would have been nice if Ma Mopar had designed that break point about an inch lower. As Jamie seems to be thinking, most likely the fingers are too set to low on your pressure plate.
 
Check the bell housing fork bracket. I've had them crack. There are different height brackets as well. Also possible it's the incorrect part.
Doug
 
Reminder (and maybe useless in this discussion):
The spring under the dash (over-center spring) is in charge of making the pedal easier
to depress and is responsible for returning the pedal to the stop as well.
The little spring on the side of the fork linkage to bellhousing is charged with holding the
throwout bearing off the fingers of the clutch, which is that spec noted in the FSM.

Reason I feel the need to state the obvious:
I've had people here try to tell me when using a diaphragm type clutch (where you detach
the over-center spring) that the little spring down below returns the pedal to the stop under
the dash - and that's just plain wrong.
 
Something to look at as well is the pin that the over center spring hooks over under the dash. I have had a couple of cars display the same symptoms and it turned out to be the pin was worn half way through, changing the geometry just enough to cause the hanging pedal. If the pin is indeed worn replacement is best however in a pinch you can rotate the pin so that the spring is resting on the complete pin diameter.
 
mrhemi said:
Something to look at as well is the pin that the over center spring hooks over under the dash. I have had a couple of cars display the same symptoms and it turned out to be the pin was worn half way through, changing the geometry just enough to cause the hanging pedal. If the pin is indeed worn replacement is best however in a pinch you can rotate the pin so that the spring is resting on the complete pin diameter.
Click to expand...


I have seen the worn pin also.
 
Waiting on Clutch, pressure plate throw out bearing from Passion, Maybe end of July as per Jammie.
 
F3F8E375-607C-41C4-8892-360A37ECC3EF.jpeg


Just received delivery of my parts… now to make time. Jamie passion very helpful. Will pull cover off A 833 trans for inspection.
 
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A15A0F34-6C5C-484F-9645-DC938462A2D2.jpeg

Getting old is tough … pulled trans & clutch assembly with a buddy. Nothing was easy. Sending out flywheel to be Machined ordering a few more parts.
Found pressure plate at a broken spring with early breakdown of pressure plate.
 
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4FAE4C77-9995-4378-922B-D3E9EA2342F4.jpeg

Found a machine shop in Liberty New York it’s going to cut my fly wheel $120..
 
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