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No room for turbos under the hood??

I just figured out,,,,the A/C is to keep you cool between rounds when you WIN Dragweek 2020:thumbsup::bananaweed::lowdown:
For sure!! I’ll be running in Street Race Big Block Power Adder class. It’s tech limited to 8.50 and it’s usually a battle for the closest 8.500 average for the week. Winning the class would be a major achievement.
 
Now that you got your CVF system all hooked up how do you like it?. I just ordered a Black Diamond set up for my 64' ,hoping it was the right move.
 
Now that you got your CVF system all hooked up how do you like it?
:popcorn2::popcorn2:
Since @Hemirunner is so :lowdown: good at
adaptation and fabrication, can you tell if it would be possible/easy/terribly difficult to add a vacuum pump to a Wraptor and how would you go about that? I have all accessories, and I don't want to give any of them up for a vacuum pump (if I ever want to add one).
I just ordered a Black Diamond set up for my 64' ,hoping it was the right move.
I have looked at all of the various offerings and I find the CVF Wraptor to be one of the best values out there in a full on, accessories inclusive system. I bought 2, one for the 440 and one for the 421 in the GTO!
 
:popcorn2::popcorn2:
Since @Hemirunner is so :lowdown: good at
adaptation and fabrication, can you tell if it would be possible/easy/terribly difficult to add a vacuum pump to a Wraptor and how would you go about that? I have all accessories, and I don't want to give any of them up for a vacuum pump (if I ever want to add one).

I have looked at all of the various offerings and I find the CVF Wraptor to be one of the best values out there in a full on, accessories inclusive system. I bought 2, one for the 440 and one for the 421 in the GTO!
Agreed on the CVF. Forget about the vacuum pump. You don’t need it and it won’t gain you anything. Either run two open crankcase breathers or a PCV system. That’s it.
Now that you got your CVF system all hooked up how do you like it?. I just ordered a Black Diamond set up for my 64' ,hoping it was the right move.
I love it. It’s so compact and very well thought out. I was glad it all worked out. I did have to shorten the crank spacer substantially because I have the extended ATI damper and a 36-1 crank wheel in front of that all in conjunction with a motor plate but I knew that going in.
 
:popcorn2::popcorn2:
Since @Hemirunner is so :lowdown: good at
adaptation and fabrication, can you tell if it would be possible/easy/terribly difficult to add a vacuum pump to a Wraptor and how would you go about that? I have all accessories, and I don't want to give any of them up for a vacuum pump (if I ever want to add one).

I have looked at all of the various offerings and I find the CVF Wraptor to be one of the best values out there in a full on, accessories inclusive system. I bought 2, one for the 440 and one for the 421 in the GTO!
After running my setup and finding out my dry sump doesn’t make the vacuum I wanted, I gave this some thought. The issue, as I see it, is the speed of the setup as most of the pulleys are running at or above engine speed. Vacuum pumps need to run half engine speed. If you’ve got any room at all in front of the lower pulley, a small cog pulley could be made to mount in place of the pulley cap and a pump could be mounted below the AC compressor. Fabricating a bracket that replaces the two spacers on that side could work. Unfortunately, in my case, my headers come forward and fill that area. My eventual solution will most likely involve making a new cam sync with a cable drive adapter on top and I’ll drive the vac pump off of that.
 
After running my setup and finding out my dry sump doesn’t make the vacuum I wanted, I gave this some thought. The issue, as I see it, is the speed of the setup as most of the pulleys are running at or above engine speed. Vacuum pumps need to run half engine speed. If you’ve got any room at all in front of the lower pulley, a small cog pulley could be made to mount in place of the pulley cap and a pump could be mounted below the AC compressor. Fabricating a bracket that replaces the two spacers on that side could work. Unfortunately, in my case, my headers come forward and fill that area. My eventual solution will most likely involve making a new cam sync with a cable drive adapter on top and I’ll drive the vac pump off of that.
I "knew" I asked the right guy! Thanks for giving it some thought, and if I need to "go there" I'll link to the thread from this one.
And again, your car = :thumbsup: and:lowdown::lowdown:
 
Not running an intercooler.
I’ll add a water/meth injection and use the Holley EFI to control it.
I know you have a lot of experience, but I want to share the results of an Engine Masters dyno session I just watched. Twin turbo BB Chevy, Holley EFI and 2 "liquid retaining" tanks, 2 solenoid/spray mechanisms, controlled using Pulse Width Modulation to alter the amount of water and methanol being injected into the intake pipe.
100% methanol was the BEST solution for EVERY aspect being tested: intake cooling, power output, everything.
So, unless you know something they missed somehow, you may want to consider this.
The only reason I can think of to add water to methanol for this purpose would be to reduce the flammable characteristics of the mix in the tank you keep it in.
This is such an awesome project, and twin turbo would definitely be my choice for a Superbird clone that is the only car I'd "like" more than my 70 Roadrunner.
 
I know you have a lot of experience, but I want to share the results of an Engine Masters dyno session I just watched. Twin turbo BB Chevy, Holley EFI and 2 "liquid retaining" tanks, 2 solenoid/spray mechanisms, controlled using Pulse Width Modulation to alter the amount of water and methanol being injected into the intake pipe.
100% methanol was the BEST solution for EVERY aspect being tested: intake cooling, power output, everything.
So, unless you know something they missed somehow, you may want to consider this.
The only reason I can think of to add water to methanol for this purpose would be to reduce the flammable characteristics of the mix in the tank you keep it in.
This is such an awesome project, and twin turbo would definitely be my choice for a Superbird clone that is the only car I'd "like" more than my 70 Roadrunner.
The part they don’t mention is that pure methanol is corrosive, and a pain to get “on the road” and it’s also a fuel in pure form and affects air fuel ratio. My only goal in using it is for detonation resistance. I can buy it in the form of windshield washer solvent and it’s cheap and plentiful and the low methanol content is a non-issue when tuning.
 
They actually mentioned all of that, including the windshield washer solvent part. They have used availability as one of the parameters of "pros/cons" as they used different fuels in another episode, and they did adjust the amount of fuel introduced when they were using 50% or greater methanol content.
I figured you were savvy about this, but since it was fresh in my mind I figured I'd share.
Thanks!
 
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