• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Gonna replace transmission pan gasket but have some questions..

Marco Perez

Marco Perez

Well-Known Member
Local time
11:17 PM
Joined
May 16, 2022
Messages
114
Reaction score
18
Location
Central California
Hi guys like the topic says I'm replacing gasket to my transmission pan, I know those bolts are 150 inch pounds torque... so my questions are the filter what are the torque specs on that and I also have purchased a rubber gasket not cork... do I need to put anything on it to seal better ? Another question is how many quarts will I need to refill ? Just taking pan and filter off... and what is proper way to restart and run transmission after doing this refill..

Thanks again guys
 
FYI gasket I have says to torque bolts down to 120 inch pounds and also says to use a lil grease on gasket before installing... is a lil transmission fluid ok ? And if transmission fluid isn't ok what type of grease is recommended ? Thanks again
 
I used the blue gasket dry and it has sealed up fine - I did install a reproduction pan that had good flat flanges. I’ve heard of putting a thin smear of chassis grease on one side of cork gaskets so they will later turn loose easier for removal. But haven’t seen that suggested for composite or rubber gaskets. Maybe someone else has.
 
I’ve heard guys use grease to hold the gasket in place but I’ve personally never done that. Whether the gasket is cork or rubber the most critical part is both mating surfaces be clean and smooth and FSM says 150 in-lbs on the pan bolts. A sharp gasket scraper to remove any stubborn old gasket. A wire cup on an angle grinder works well to remove any old RTV or silicone from the last time it was done. Also removes stubborn bits of cork that may remain on either surface. Install the bolts by hand first then lightly snug at each of the corners. From there I like to snug all of the bolts lightly using a criss-cross pattern until I’ve done them all. Then do the same sequence again to tighten them to their final torque.

If the new gasket indicates a specific torque that is less than the FSM I’d start with that torque first. You can always snug them up further to 150 in-lbs if the gasket leaks.

On any of my cars newer or older I start with 4 quarts to refill on a transmission fluid and filter change. Then I start the car and go up and down (with my foot on the brake) and select each gear. Remain in each gear idling for 5-10 seconds. Check the fluid level warm and add as necessary. I’ll usually leave it a touch below the full mark, drive it for a day and then check again and top off when the transmission is hot. Transmission should be in neutral, operating temperature and running to check properly.
 
Thanks for your guys input ill probably go only gasket to 120 inch pounds first, i also ordered new set of pan bolt because one of the ones currently on there is pretty stripped I could probably manage to remove it with some pliers but it slips using a socket.

I also plan on cleaning and slightly sanding pan and painting to match some other parts under the hood...
 
Quite often the shift selector seal is the cause of leaking fluid.
It seems like the pan is leaking but often its the seal.
 
HEMI-ITIS said:
What pan are you using? Steel or aluminum?
Click to expand...
I am using stock pan I believe, also does anyone know how many quarts I would need to refill ? If I only remove pan and filter ? I see 4 or 6 quarts not sure which one is correct...

20220814_133417.jpg


20220814_133425.jpg


20220814_133427.jpg
 
Don Frelier said:
Quite often the shift selector seal is the cause of leaking fluid.
It seems like the pan is leaking but often its the seal.
Click to expand...
I'll start with replacing filter and gasket if leak continues I'll end up trying to do tge shift selector seal... it that easy to do and with transmission on. . ?
 
Make sure pan lip is flat. Tap flat with a flat punch on a flat, hard surface. I have a helicoil repair kit on hand as at least 1 is stripped out everytime.

I use cork and glue the gasket to the pan, leave the trans mating surface clean. Rubber, you could do the same. There is another type... hard gasket with sealing ribs, newer production which requires no sealant.
 
wagonman said:
Where do you find the cork gaskets? Have not seen them in a few years.
Click to expand...
No the gasket I got is rubber black and thin... I also got my motor oil pan gasket that is a cork gasket, but I didn't replace since I have to move the sway bar out the way.. leaving that for another day although it doesn't leak much after returning pan bolts and giving it an oil change retorquing plug as well
 
I've never had a stock pan seal up well with just the gasket, most are warped enough to allow them to start leaking. I toss on a thin coating of RTV on both the pan and transmission and then gasket between them....very rarely do I get a leak after that. I've also never used an in/lb torque wrench on my pan bolts...just go by feel...probably in the 10 ft/lbs range?....just snug them up and then give them 1/8th turn past snug, then after a couple heat cycles go back and give them one more snugging. ;)

I'd start with 4 quarts as @PlymCrazy mentioned and top up as needed.
 
Thrashingcows said:
I've never had a stock pan seal up well with just the gasket, most are warped enough to allow them to start leaking. I toss on a thin coating of RTV on both the pan and transmission and then gasket between them....very rarely do I get a leak after that. I've also never used an in/lb torque wrench on my pan bolts...just go by feel...probably in the 10 ft/lbs range?....just snug them up and then give them 1/8th turn past snug, then after a couple heat cycles go back and give them one more snugging. ;)

I'd start with 4 quarts as @PlymCrazy mentioned and top up as needed.
Click to expand...
That is why it is important to straighten the pan flange. I just don't get this gasket and sealant deal. Do it right and it should not leak.
 
I forget how many quarts - I believe it’s mentioned in the factory service manual and maybe the owners manual if you have one. I know it’s more than 4 - could be as much as 9 quarts for a complete fill, but memory is not clear. If just dropping the pan then what’s in the torque converter will stay there for the most part so you may only get about 6 quarts to refill it. Torque converter size makes some difference. You can probably start with about 5 quarts to get it started and then add as necessary While checking the stick and idling in neutral.

On bolts, I normally go a little light on tightening them initially rather than chance distort the pan - but I go back after each heat cycle several times and re-tighten them as the gasket compresses. I just replaced the valve covers on my 66 Hemi with Fel-Pro steel reinforced 1/4” thick gaskets. And I made about 10 trips around the covers re-snugging them up each day and after a drive, before they finally firmed up and stayed tight. At first I could simply go back to them the next morning and find the gasket had compressed and the bolts had loosened up just sitting overnight. It was over a week before they got stable. But eventually they will stabilize and the gasket will be uniformally sealed.

My worthless 2 cents.
 
mopar 3 B said:
That is why it is important to straighten the pan flange. I just don't get this gasket and sealant deal. Do it right and it should not leak.
Click to expand...
Yep. The only reason I glue to the pan is so the gasket doesn't squish out when re torqueing. After running it in I go back and snug the bolts up.
 
I like the later A-518 pan gasket from 2000 or so Ram pickup. It is neoprene with steel core and all the holes are o-ringed. Put it on dry and buy a set of the longer pan bolts.
 
Clean , clean , clean.

Those mating surfaces have to be squeaky clean. I use brake clean first to spray down the pan and clean up any sludge in the pan. Then I use paint thinner on a rag and wipe down the edges again. Wearing gloves as well.

Then I used permex hi-tac spray gasket. Spray the lip of the pan and gasket side that will mate to it. Place gasket in place making sure holes are lined up exactly. Then lift the pan up into place and try not shift pan around to much get a bolt on each side and go from there. Tighten down alternating sides .

As mentioned this is all a waste of time if the pan lip is bent.


Cheers
 
Another question guys after I refill and first turn it on I read with parking break on go thru the gears.... what does that mean ? I have the 737 push transmission... do I leave lever down as I go thru every gear ending with neutral? Can someone explain how to go thru every gear after ? Is it ok to get out of park and go thru gears not necessarily drive but just let the transmission go into each gear while holding the breaks.. ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Huicho417
Milodon oil pan gasket issues.
Replies
0
Views
1K
Huicho417
Huicho417
66 Sat
727 Filter Help
2
Replies
22
Views
2K
66 Sat
66 Sat
1963JAM
Leaking 727B transmission
2
Replies
33
Views
4K
fj5gtx
F
Huicho417
help, oil pan gasket question
Replies
8
Views
2K
69Bee
69Bee
D
Transmission oil pan conundrum.
Replies
11
Views
1K
Darter6
Darter6
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top