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Do you prefer 50 year old OEM or new repro switches?

CoronetDarter

CoronetDarter

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What are member's opinions on replacing electronic gear like ignition switches, starter relays, brake switches, etc. with brand-new in the original packaging OEM part that's 50+ years old, vs. brand new repro from Rock Auto or O'Reillys? For reliability sake, I'm weighing decades of possible degradation vs a cheap substitute from China.
Specifically I need to replace the ignition switch on my 69 Coronet.
 
OEM all the way. That Standard LX101 USA made ignition module new in the box from 1982 will likley last 10-20 years in service, the Chinese ones at all the parts stores these days 1 year if your lucky.
 
OEM is always better than today's junk. I bought a Mopar Authorized starter relay....lasted barely a week. The only reason I replaced the OEM one was I had just got my car repainted the original F8, and the relay had yellow overspray on it. I pulled the junk new one off and cleaned the OEM one, and it is still going strong.
 
We all should make efforts to seek out and buy OEM parts at swap meets when we can, even worn out looking stuff. There are guys that do rebuild original switches using hand made or quality new parts. Stuff like wiper switches, units for power windows, convertible tops, lights, etc. The new stuff is unpredictable. People blame China for crappy quality but I think that as evil as that country can be, they are capable of building quality stuff if the price is right. Companies that contract with China are trying to squeeze every last penny so the Chinese build them to meet that cheap price point.
 
If it's a cam or something like that i'd say NOS of course.

I recently had to make the same decision when replacing my water pump.
I decided to go with an aftermarket pump (Gates) because i was worried the internal seals from a 50 year old nos pump might be deteriorated from age.
But i also bought an NOS pump and if the gates should go out soon i will try that next.

A bit offtopic but what experience do you guys have with edelbrock parts?
They aren't cheap and many seem to be made in the united states.
Are they good and last like nos/oem or just more expensive than some other brands? Just found out they also seem to make crate engines.
 
Michael_ said:
If it's a cam or something like that i'd say NOS of course.

I recently had to make the same decision when replacing my water pump.
I decided to go with an aftermarket pump (Gates) because i was worried the internal seals from a 50 year old nos pump might be deteriorated from age.
But i also bought an NOS pump and if the gates should go out soon i will try that next.

A bit offtopic but what experience do you guys have with edelbrock parts?
They aren't cheap and many seem to be made in the united states.
Are they good and last like nos/oem or just more expensive than some other brands? Just found out they also seem to make crate engines.
Click to expand...
Eddy used to be good, Their new motto is From here on up Its all Down hill.
 
I don't know how many non ignition parts he has but @HALIFAXHOPS would be the guy to check with about new "old stock" electrical small parts.
 
Michael_ said:
If it's a cam or something like that i'd say NOS of course.

I recently had to make the same decision when replacing my water pump.
I decided to go with an aftermarket pump (Gates) because i was worried the internal seals from a 50 year old nos pump might be deteriorated from age.
But i also bought an NOS pump and if the gates should go out soon i will try that next.

A bit offtopic but what experience do you guys have with edelbrock parts?
They aren't cheap and many seem to be made in the united states.
Are they good and last like nos/oem or just more expensive than some other brands? Just found out they also seem to make crate engines.
Click to expand...
I agree with you on parts that have rubber seals or gaskets, which is why I specifically asked about electric devices.
I have had Eddy carbs and intakes on my cars for years with no issues. I recently installed an 800 cfm AVS-2 on the Coronet and it runs great. The Dart is running an old 1406 Eddy that I'll be swapping out to an AVS-2 as well.
 
Kern Dog said:
We all should make efforts to seek out and buy OEM parts at swap meets when we can, even worn out looking stuff. There are guys that do rebuild original switches using hand made or quality new parts. Stuff like wiper switches, units for power windows, convertible tops, lights, etc.
Click to expand...
I agree. There are several OEM components on both my cars that either I've rebuilt or had sent out.
In the case of my ignition switch, I had it out last week, tested it for continuity and it was good, but registered what I considered high resistance. Pulled out the lock cylinder and cleaned the bottom of the switch barrel and the lock cylinder contact point, lubed it up with dielectric grease and reinstalled. The Coronet fired right up. Same thing this morning until I got gas, then I had to jump the starter relay. Ran some errands and the engine fired up each time; so there's some random issue going on. Can ignition switches be rebuilt or refurbished?
 
New electrical is untrustworthy to say the least and the same with old rubber also. My rule of thumn is if it was made 90's and back it is way better than today. FYI Dialectric greas is a insulator not a conductive material, just another wide held auto myth that it is.
 
NOS Mopar parts first if I can find them when I need them
New Aftermkt is 2nd.

the modern chinese junk is only as a last resort and is only to get the car operational again, while I look for the above

I have 3 cars from 66/67 model years so it makes it easier to find parts common between them .
especially electrical pieces
I have a hot sheet of OEM part numbers I do a semi regular search for to see if they become avail.

Right now, I need a wiper switch for a 66 and so far no luck, so Im considering trying to find a known good used one maybe
 
I like NOS but stay away from rubber inside stuff IF POSSIBLE. I have never cam across one buisness that will take back a defective NOS part yet, can be very expensive. Luckily now we are at a point alot of the common fail items can be rebuilt by us old guys that specialize in them and have the years of knoledge on it. Just say for example you have a bad 383 vac advance hard to find now NORS and new, NOS is say 90 and I can do a reubilt for around 100 with a neopream not rubber diaphram and a core charge. . Whch way is prudent?
 
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Call Tommy at Parts Hound he rebuilds wiper switches and might even have one done.
 
CoronetDarter said:
Can ignition switches be rebuilt or refurbished?
Click to expand...
My assumption is that if it can come apart, it can be rebuilt or refurbished. The contacts get worn and could be built back up with solder and a file, anything that slides could be regreased, etc.
I'd like to learn how to do this. I also want to learn how to repair plastic grilles since some are not being reproduced.
 
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