IMO......The carb inlet / floats are the check valves as well as the fuel pump discharge has a outlet check valve to prevent EXACTLY that. There is no need for additional hardware.
Yeah that's my thinking as I already have a Carter external inline pump but trying to find a good place to mount it close to the fuel tank is almost impossible as there is no room on a 68 Corornet RT. What I did thou is I did buy a check valve as I wanted to try it before getting into a pump. Lots of replies are saying the check valve will not work. Here's what I did I installed one in the fuel line between the carb and my mechanical fuel pump closer to the carb. Started the car up to check for leaks and everything looked good and took it for a ride to get the temp up to normal operating range ( 180 degrees ) put the car back in the garage and let it sit for 7 days without starting it. Got into it yesterday hit the gas pedal once to set the choke then hit the key and in less than 2 seconds she fired right up so the check valve did what it's designed to do, I'm sure I'm going to get lots of response about the valve but hay it worked I didn't have to sit cranking it for 5 minutes to get it started. I still do have the option of installing the pump and using a switch to run it for a minute or so but for right now I'm happy with the outcome of the valve and it only took 5 minutes to install.
Good to hear that it worked for you. What check valve did you use?
I bought Evil Energy check valves, they were one of the highest rated valves and had very good reviews. I bought a twin pack for $12.00 off of Amazon.
Interesting, and neither of my two will do that. I have to crank the heck out of them after setting a month. One with a Edelbrock and one with a original B&B.
