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Engine angle question

M

McPorGuy

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The project is a 1964 Dodge 330. Installing the Gen III 426 from Blueprint and TKX using SST.

What front to back angle for the engine is acceptable? When I put my angle gauge on top of the intake I read 4.3 degrees with the engine being higher in front than back.

The TKX has trouble clearing the tunnel and the transmission crossmember support. SST trimmed the top of the TKX tail providing more clearance. I notched the transmission crossmember support.

To raise the transmission I'd have to cut the transmission crossmember support. I've added additional support to the trans bracket when I notched the support. If I cut through the support I'm thinking I'd weld a new higher support.

I haven't checked driveline angle yet but understand if there's an issue I might be able to adjust pinion angle.
 
McPorGuy said:
The project is a 1964 Dodge 330. Installing the Gen III 426 from Blueprint and TKX using SST.

What front to back angle for the engine is acceptable? When I put my angle gauge on top of the intake I read 4.3 degrees with the engine being higher in front than back.

The TKX has trouble clearing the tunnel and the transmission crossmember support. SST trimmed the top of the TKX tail providing more clearance. I notched the transmission crossmember support.

To raise the transmission I'd have to cut the transmission crossmember support. I've added additional support to the trans bracket when I notched the support. If I cut through the support I'm thinking I'd weld a new higher support.

I haven't checked driveline angle yet but understand if there's an issue I might be able to adjust pinion angle.
Click to expand...
I suspect you may have to do this to get the rear higher to correct the DA.
Go a little extra to get more adjustment range.
Mike
 
My racecar is 3 degrees. The engine sets 3/4" higher in front than stock. The trans is in the factory location. More than that is a fair amount but many 4wd trucks run a large angle. I'd shim the K frame down. 5/8" will take out about 1 degree.
Doug
 
Thanks. I've got alot of hours into the car and a few more won't kill me. I'll check out the k frame solution first.
 
That could affect a lot of other things like steering column, radiator hoses, exhaust etc.
Not saying do not do it but look in to it first.
 
McPorGuy said:
The project is a 1964 Dodge 330. Installing the Gen III 426 from Blueprint and TKX using SST.

What front to back angle for the engine is acceptable? When I put my angle gauge on top of the intake I read 4.3 degrees with the engine being higher in front than back.

The TKX has trouble clearing the tunnel and the transmission crossmember support. SST trimmed the top of the TKX tail providing more clearance. I notched the transmission crossmember support.

To raise the transmission I'd have to cut the transmission crossmember support. I've added additional support to the trans bracket when I notched the support. If I cut through the support I'm thinking I'd weld a new higher support.

I haven't checked driveline angle yet but understand if there's an issue I might be able to adjust pinion angle.
Click to expand...
That reading is probably not accurate. A better place to read the angle would be on the crank pulley with a straight edge or the transmission shaft.
My 68 Charger with a 6.1 and 5R45RFE transmission reads about 4.5 down as well. I had to relocate the spring perches to get the drive line angles. You may be able to get by with shimming your pinion.
 
I loosened the 4 k frame bolts. The front of the k frame starts to drop to make room for a shim. The rear is not budging. I noticed that the upper control arms are resting on the bump stops and believe that may be preventing the k frame from lowering. The upper control arms are tubular and installed by a previous owner. They look like Firm Feel UCAs. I'm guessing since the bump stops are hex shaped, not round.

A few questions:

1) Does it make sense that the UCA bump stop is holding up the k frame?
2 If the bump stop is the culprit would loosening the torsion bar create room to remove and trim or replace the bump stop? Or do I need to remove the UCA?
 
Just loosen the t- bars. Maybe in combination with prying the k down to slide shims in
 
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