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Cooling issues 69 RR 440 at wits end!

J

jim occhiuto

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So i know a lot of guys have posted similar issues so bear with me....

Data:
22" aftermarket 3 core radiator
New clutch on fan
No shroud ( can't get anything to fit rad)
Put 3000 cfm pusher fan on front of radiator
Removed tranny lines and put new cooler away from rad
Tried all diff thermostats and ended up with just a restrictor plate.
New upper and lower hoses.
New "stock" CW water pump
New 15lb rad cap.


Car runs pretty cool for about 15 minutes and then temp creeps up slowly to 230+ when I turn off.

Have 2 guages and both show same hot condition.

Pukes water/antifreeze after i shut off steam, etc.

I give up!

Only other thing is to change radiator with one tgat fits a standard shroud but I can't find any that they say works with stock shroud.

So..questions:
1. Any other ideas other than rip engine apart and look for some obstructions (relatively new build with decent cam and big headers.

2. Any idea for 22" radiator that works with stock shroud?

3. Shoukd i ditch clutch fan and use non clutch?

Thanks for all your help
 
I have had to install a home made spring in my lower radiator hose to keep it from sucking shut.
Ebay 26" alum radiator, clutch fan, no shroud, 180 thermostat with 1/8" relief hole.
Steady 180 degees in the heat.
Do not overfill radiator
 
to toss over some things - is the system burped? How is the water pump? View how it is flowing with cap open. Something you do when burping the system. Clutch fan should be better than not, what is the distance of the fan from radiator? Is your motor built up? Bored out?
 
jim occhiuto said:
Data:
22" aftermarket 3 core radiator
New clutch on fan
No shroud ( can't get anything to fit rad) TRY WIZARD
Put 3000 cfm pusher fan on front of radiator THROW IT OUT
Removed tranny lines and put new cooler away from rad
Tried all diff thermostats and ended up with just a restrictor plate. NO !!! USE A 180
New upper and lower hoses.
New "stock" CW water pump
New 15lb rad cap.

Only other thing is to change radiator with one tgat fits a standard shroud but I can't find any that they say works with stock shroud. TRY WIZARD

So..questions:
1. Any other ideas other than rip engine apart and look for some obstructions (relatively new build with decent cam and big headers.

2. Any idea for 22" radiator that works with stock shroud? GLEN-RAY FOR OE, WIZARD FOR ALUM

3. Shoukd i ditch clutch fan and use non clutch? NO

Thanks for all your help
Click to expand...
Whose A/M rad ? I've had some that were useless. On one of my cars I have a Wizard which fits perfectly and the stock shroud fits perfectly. If you desire OEM appearance, spend the $$$ and go Glen-ray. What is your timing set at ? You should have a shroud with the fan halfway into it.
 
First step get a co2 test kit from Amazon to check head gasket for leaks. Second if big block no more then 60 thousands clearance between impeller back side and facia of pump housing. Third you must have minimum 2/3. fan blade in some kind of shroud. Then 1/4 inch clearance max around edge of blades to id of shroud. The clutch mechanism you have is it a ac version or standard which makes a difference. The electric pusher simply put is bulshit with a proper cooling system, just b increases demand on alternator. Can you also tell us if the overheat is happening at hywayvspeeds or off idle
 
Last edited:
snakeoil24 said:
you must have minimum 2/3. fan blade in some kind of shroud. Then 1/4 inch clearance max around edge of blades to id of shroud. The clutch mechanism you have is it a ac version or standard which makes a difference. The electric pusher simply put is bulshit with a proper cooling system, just b increases demand on alternator.
Click to expand...
Yes ! don't understate the importance of having air move THROUGH the radiator, NOT above, around, or underneath it ! Hood seal, baffles, lower shield all add to the direction of air through the radiator.
 
My opinion only!
You haven't got enough radiator. I wouldn't put a 22 in front of any big block.
I have a 28" big block cordoba high efficiency in my 440 savoy,(with the modified cordoba shroud) and a 19x31 big block dually radiator in my Opel.
For a hotrod (not an original car) I tend to use the biggest radiator that will fit between the frame rails.
 
Definitely a 26” radiator w/shroud. What did it do with a 160*Tstat in it? Not a fan of restricter plates.
 
I ran a 22" 2 core for years on my 383.
It came with a wimpy little 4 blade fan.
No shroud.
Yes it would get hot in the summer sitting at a light but not 230 degrees and rising.
Very likely there is another problem.
 
Don Frelier said:
I ran a 22" 2 core for years on my 383.
It came with a wimpy little 4 blade fan.
No shroud.
Yes it would get hot in the summer sitting at a light but not 230 degrees and rising.
Very likely there is another problem.
Click to expand...
Don as we both know every car that comes across to us has a different story.
 
One of the things I did on my 440 RR was put some screen mesh material in the hood inserts that act as vents to let hot air out and relieve the static pressure in the engine bay, which allows better air flow through the radiator. Painted them red, they look like air grabber inserts.
I have a 26" aluminum rad, fixed 7 blade fan, no shroud, added an overflow bottle, no cooling issues at all on 100 degree days.

hoodvent.jpg
 
33 IMP said:
My opinion only!
You haven't got enough radiator. I wouldn't put a 22 in front of any big block.
I have a 28" big block cordoba high efficiency in my 440 savoy,(with the modified cordoba shroud) and a 19x31 big block dually radiator in my Opel.
For a hotrod (not an original car) I tend to use the biggest radiator that will fit between the frame rails.
Click to expand...
Although bigger would be better, I have original 22" radiators from Glen Ray in front of both my big block strokers. 565 & 580 hp. Bob told me they would work just fine with my power output, and he was correct. They both run between 180 and 190. Factory shroud, 216 clutch fans, 180 full flow stats, green antifreeze, and Flow Kooler pumps.
 
hunt2elk said:
Although bigger would be better, I have original 22" radiators from Glen Ray in front of both my big block strokers. 565 & 580 hp. Bob told me they would work just fine with my power output, and he was correct. They both run between 180 and 190. Factory shroud, 216 clutch fans, 180 full flow stats, green antifreeze, and Flow Kooler pumps.
Click to expand...
But see, you gave your 22 every chance to succeed! A shroud, a big clutch fan, and a great water pump. And a thousand dollar radiator.
OP needs a shroud, can't find one for his aftermarket radiator. I'd find a bigger radiator that he CAN get a shroud for.
 
I had a lot of problems keeping my 440 cool. I gave up on the stock 22", an aftermarket aluminum 22", and finally just put a 26" ACC radiator in the 22" hole. Bolts right up on the drivers side and just make a couple new holes on the pass side. Re-pop stock shroud bolts right up, 180 t-stat and 7 blade stock fan (non-clutch). I did add a Flowkooler water pump which I'm sure helped things. Trans lines are running through it also and on a super hot day stuck in traffic, I might hit 190.
 
I’ve got a 22” recored to 4 row HE in front of 440 in a body. Stretched bottom tank. Using a chevy hhr electric fan and electric water pump. I would make sure you are building pressure, any small leak anywhere will keep you overheating. Cheap pressure tester from Harbor garbage will do. I also would like to reiterate that you want as much air as you can going over the tubes and fins. I worked at a rad shop for a while. I also caution about two fans, but some people disagree. So, for an idea about a shroud, the HHR fan fits the 22 pretty slick like and its quite slim. It is something you could probably pull the fan assy out of and use the shroud part. Yes, probably a little trim here and there, but you may be able to sneak it in there. Good luck!
 
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