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Opinions on this 440

Aussie Coronet

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Hi blokes,

Been offered this 440, the price is right so will probably grab it.

It's been out of it's last car for 10-12 months, so I'm not worried but I was just interested to know your thoughts on anything you might see in the attached pics.
It's a late 70's block (4006630-440-10), 75-78 I think. I don't know if it's out of a motorhome nor do I care, just anything your experienced eys pick up would be helpful, even if it's just "yeah, that's a 440, nothing too interesting to look at".

Thanks guys!
4402.jpg
By aussiecoronet at 2010-10-09[/IMG]
4401x.jpg

By aussiecoronet at 2010-10-09
4403.jpg

By aussiecoronet at 2010-10-09
 
The late 70.s 440,s are low compression smog motors...They have a cast crank instead of a forged crank...It,s a good block to build up..Thats pretty much it...You,ll need to spend some dough to get it to be a real runner..If it,s free take it!!
Petty Blue 67 GTX
 
Aside from the low compression, cast crank engines are a long ways from being worthless. Mom's cast crank engines are probably on par with GM's forged cranks....and GM is the one that gave cast cranks a bad name but yeah, the early 440 forged crank engines bring in the big bucks.
 
As pointed out, your worst enemy is the low compression but zero deck pistons will fix that!! I'm running KB 237's in my 77 440 with closed chamber heads and it CC'd out to 10.1:1. The cast crank isn't a deal breaker as I'm sure you can get 400 reliable horses out of it with 600 RPM shift points. The LY rods seem to have more material at the parting line so you might want to consider getting a set of those. Also be sure to have the reciprocating assy balanced. The heads aren't great but should provide enough air flow for some respectable HP numbers.
 
Meep-Meep hit it on the head.....Some zero deck pistons will do the trick if you're looking at bumping up your comp ratio!
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate the info. I must admit I am far more interested in show , than go as I've never been one for drag's (well, legal ones that is). Just so long as I can justify the little 440 badges on the N96 scoops I'll be happy.
I was thinking of just checking all the cylinders to make sure they all looked good, throwing new gaskets on, valve stem seals, toss a edelbrock manifold on there of some sort, new carby and bingo! That'll do me.

Maybe down the track I'll look at something a bit more hard core but there are so few 440 cars out here the number itself, even if the motor is out of a tug boat, carries a good deal of street cred.
 
Aside from what's mentioned above, it's a plus that it has all the accessories, distributor, water pump etc if you need it.
 
Nothing wrong with running it as is. If you put in an other than stock cam make sure you get one that is specified for 8.0:1 compression. Edelbrock performer package designed for low CR will be a good choice.
 
a cheap and easy compression bump on the .115 in the hole piston motors is a set of late 60's 361/383 closed chamber heads (516's IIRC). they have smaller valves,and most folks just toss them,but,with good fel-pro head gaskets,they will still bring that cast crank 440 up to right at 9.3 to 9.5 to 1. throw in a a comp XE268,eddy intake and a 750 holley,time her for pump gas (no more than 34 degrees total) and rock and roll.
 
The closed chambered heads generally run right around 80cc and the open chambers run around 90cc. I have a set of 516's with the larger exhaust valve on a 440 with .050 down pistons and the static compression is 10.3-1
 
not all late model 440 and 400 engines were cast cranks. Trucks, 4spd or 3/4T 400 and 440's did have some forged cranks in them. I have a 77 440 3/4T with a forged crank motor.
 
If the price is right grab it and upgrade it to your liking. Late model 440 doesn't mean it bad.
The sky the limit and wallet on what you can do.
 
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