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big block swap

dartforforty

Deceased, But not forgotton
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just purchased a 64 Belvedere, and toying with the idea of putting a 440 in it.
car is a factory poly 318 auto. wondering if I need to change the k-frame for a big block swap?

any help would be appreciated
 
The k frame is the same for small,b.and rb blocks....slant six and hemi are different.
 
The K frame will work, but you'll have to have the motor mount brackets that bolt to the 440 block (the polys won't work).

I'm getting ready to do this very same swap, only on a '64 Fury. The question for me was if the 440's oil pan would fit in the car. Seems some pans were different and some won't fit. Anybody know? Also, I've heard that some mild mods would be needed for the tranny mount, since a big block 727 is also needed. Anyone know?
 
The K frame will work, but you'll have to have the motor mount brackets that bolt to the 440 block (the polys won't work).

I'm getting ready to do this very same swap, only on a '64 Fury. The question for me was if the 440's oil pan would fit in the car. Seems some pans were different and some won't fit. Anybody know? Also, I've heard that some mild mods would be needed for the tranny mount, since a big block 727 is also needed. Anyone know?

if you use a cable type 727 you wont have to do anything with the trans mount but if you go with a later trans you will have to get a different mount i think schumachers make a mount for this conversion.
 
I`m sticking with my pushbutton. I have a 63 plymouth, 440 stroked to 500, 65 tranny, 65 rearend with 11 inch brakes. In fact I am looking for a metering block from a 68 drum brake car. I have a new 68 Master cyl for my 63. (thought it would be neat to still need a wrench for removal of the lid):icon_keel:
 
First, dartforfourty, not trying to steal your thread, but this info should help you too. 65DODGE, Yea, I'd love to find a push button big block 727, but finding any Mopar parts in my neck of the woods is tough. It was my understanding that the problem with using a later tranny (beside rigging a shifter) is that the rear mount crossmember is slightly in the wrong place. On mine, I can loosen it and slide it several inches either way along the frame rails (the fake frame rails I should say). That was my plan...but...is it the mount itself that won't fit the stock crossmember? Can someone offer a little more detail on this? Thanks!
 
First, dartforfourty, not trying to steal your thread, but this info should help you too. 65DODGE, Yea, I'd love to find a push button big block 727, but finding any Mopar parts in my neck of the woods is tough. It was my understanding that the problem with using a later tranny (beside rigging a shifter) is that the rear mount crossmember is slightly in the wrong place. On mine, I can loosen it and slide it several inches either way along the frame rails (the fake frame rails I should say). That was my plan...but...is it the mount itself that won't fit the stock crossmember? Can someone offer a little more detail on this? Thanks!

I wasn`t trying to steal the thread either. Just telling what I am doing. A bolt together process. 65 trannys will work for a pushbutton but they have a slip on yolk. They need the newer front input shaft to use a newer converter. No biggie. 65 727 trannys are very HARD TO FIND. I just happen to have one. On a side note, I have a 62 pushbutton 727 big block tranny and converter for sale.
 
No need to change the K frame. Don't do what I did years ago. I ditched a perfectly good '65 V-8 K for what I thought was a 'big block K' out of a '70 RR. Engine never sat right and I had to modify the trans crossmember (a lot) to make it work at all - the engine sits too far back. Luckily, I was able to locate another correct K and crossmember without too much difficulty. Try that nowadays.

Shumacher's got everything you need to make this swap, correct engine mounting brackets, stock style or polylock motor mounts, tranny mounts for the pushbutton trannys or conversion mounts to use later transmissions and tri-y style headers.

Heddman and BlackJack (Walker/Dynomax) make headers that slide right in with zero issues.
 
Hi, I just did this swap on my 65 Coronet. K memeber is the same you just need to find big block motor mount brackets as polkat has said. The trans mount is a little more difficult if your using the later 727. I used an A body mount as it`s alot closer to fitting than the original one and modified the cross member to set the mount back about an inch further. Shumacher does make a mount that works with the later trans but the A body mount is 12$ and an hours work.
 
Homstead, can you elaborate a bit about using the A body mount? When you bought the mount, what year did you ask for? For a big block 727 right? And how did you modify the crossmember to make it work? Any pics? This sounds like something I want to try, but I can't quite invision it.
 
Hi polkat, If I remember correctly it was for a small block 70-71 duster but I`ll get a part number for you tomorrow. The crossmemeber was modified by moving the mount back into the crossmember by cutting a notch and redrilling the holes for the mount. A support was added to replace the notch and add stability to the mount. The front part of the crossmember was also shortened up as well. I hope this helps a little bit. If I have time this week I`ll see if I can take some pics of a stock mount and show you what I did. You can`t really tell from underneath the car what was done.
 
great Homstead, I'm sure others here would like to see that as well. Do you remember how far back the mount had to go?
 
The mount is Anchor # 2272. Pictures will come later in the week.
 
pictures

I finally got around to getting some pictures for you. The A body mount needs to be moved back about 3/4 of an inch. I`m sure this may vary from car to car. I`d recommend putting the mount in the crossmember and taking a measurement on the car first.

The bracket that is welded to the crossmember was cut with a plasma cutter but I`m sure theres other ways to accomplish this.

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Once you have the notch removed there is a dish in the bottom of the bracket that should have a plate welded in so the mount sits flat.

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The new mount only has one stud and it will fit into the next hole if you elongate it a bit.

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Once you have the mount sitting where you want it a plate should be welded in to take up the slack at the front of the mount. I`m sure theres other ways of accomplishing this but it seemed the easiest and looks factory. Have fun and don`t think twice about putting a big block into a B body!

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009.jpg


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K frame Mod, maybe

Hey, just doing this now. Same K frame with Schumaker mounts...perfect. Engine however has big hand made oil pan. I needed to trim the rear lip of the K frame about 1 1/2 inches for it to fit in. Used recip. saw and grinder. Very heavy piece, but will tack on a brace when done. 65 cable shift trans slides in with no mods to trans mount. One tip, if trans is out of column shift car sprag will need to be changed for push button cable to fit. Doug's headers has a perfect fir for this (B/RB) application.
 
Throttle linkage question

Not sure how this works...2nd posting. I'm doing the 64 Fury B/RB swap from 318 Poly. Bought Edelbrock performer carb...Linkage moves the wrong way..Ie cable in car is designed to "pull" when you step on the gas. Carb is set up that cable would need to "push" to open carb. Has anyone got a tip on an adaptor? Also has one piece kickdown linkage that "goes the wrong way" - opposite the way the carb is set up
 
Did you get the "Mopar adapter" for the E carb? They don't go the wrong way. I put this on a 4 speed car, but it should give you an idea

Picture 028.jpg
 
Thanks

Had a look on the edelbrock website....picked up the part (1481) makes perfect sence now..Anyone have advice on kickdowns (other than scrounging a yard)? Looks like the one piece unit from the poly 2bbl is too short. Thanks for any leads.
 
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