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If I understand your question, you measure from the end of the tailshaft to the bottom of the U-joint sadel. The seal doesn't matter.
Have tried Brewers? And yes you do need a transmission mount. What happened to the one that was there when you pulled the engine and transmission....
To the best of my knowledge there is no one bad rod. If you are going in it why not go all the way and rebuild it?
On an RB the valley pan is the gasket, I think it is the same on a B engine.
Oh I have, but your weld looks much better than his
It looks like it was repaired. They are two piece and welded together but that one does not appear factory (from the picture)
I've seen some wiped out lifters in my time but, damn!
According to Rock Auto, No As an example they both take a PH8A (Used as an example, I do not endorse Fram)
Ah, but that's the engine mount?
Nope the later blocks are as good as the early ones, and they were less susceptible to core shift and contrary to popular belief they are no...
Thanks' that's great, brings back so many memories of rebuilding these.
I think it is a bad lifter, it sounds like it is leaking down.
I'd contact 440 Source, I've found them to great at standing behind their products.
I've had three sets of Stealth heads and have had no problems. I've built engines with other heads, Edelbrock and Brodix that had to go back....
With that kind of gearing, I'd go with the 440.
Hello Mopars don't oil through the pushrods, my guess would be that you bottomed out the valve spring. Check the installed height. Since you only...
A/C on a T-Bucket? Interesting.
And add a zinc additive to the oil. There's no longer enough zinc
If the bearing surfaces are machined, that sounds right. If not there's a problem.