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In the “day 2” theme, I had the class win decals that were on my car when found reproduced and installed them on an original rear window.
Day 2 all the way.
Only in very special circumstances would I consider a factory restoration. HEMI car, Wing car, AAR, A12 car, etc..... (and...
I learned something as well.
I thought the “s” in “ubs” was for stripe color
No. You won’t find an equal length header for a mopar unless you have custom ones fabricated, and those would be unconventional as far as routing...
As has already been said, TTI.Doug’s look nice too. I went with TTI as I wanted a 1-7/8” primary and Doug’s only come in 2” primary on an RB header.
Sounds like you have all the answers and, by your assessment, you should have your pick of nice 66-67 b bodies in the 7 to 8 thousand range....
Unless you want a slant 6, 4 door
Not a chance in hell you will find a mechanically sound, decent driver quality paint and interior 66-67 b body for 7 or 8 grand.
I’d build a stroker.
I'm no OE guy, but in my opinion, if you aren't sure then leave them off.
I'd bet that lots of the paint daubs you see on "OE restorations"...
That's what the arm should look like.
I bought some "quasimoline" from resto Rick. You can google search for his site and info.
Some that I'm fairly certain on. Maybe some of the paint daub guys can correct / fill in some more for you:Upper A arms- bareSpindles- bare...
I had my dampener machined with timing marks up to 40* so I can use an old school fixed light. I don't like dial back timing lights.