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This is fairly common with newly-engineered systems. I surely learned my lesson on that on in the past. Never buy a first year (or maybe even second year) model/engine/transmission, etc. Let others be the guinea pigs!

Sounds normal to me. Every carb'd Mopar I own requires spinning the engine to build up fuel and several pumps to prime the engine if it's been sitting for more than a couple of days. The longer they sit, the more is needed. If the choke is off, an adjustment may improve it a little. In the days...

If you think about it, with the AP food delivery services plus grocery store home delivery services, it's surprising Schwan survived this long. Whoever it was that made the case to buy out Schwan a year ago made a major blunder, and the whomever sold the company was lucky to get out with...

This is a no-brainer: Keep the max engine in the car, determine the fair value of it, and give the money to grandma.

Many rules for oval track racing require upgrading your car to larger lug studs > that's why these non-DOT wheels are made this way. You can always drill out your rotors/drums for 5/8" studs like we all used to do when running hobby stock cars. Personally, I could not make myself run wheels with...

Both my Home and Auto have doubled in three years even though I reduced coverage. I paid it just to keep the policy going but need to start shopping again. It seems like you have to do it every 3-5 years to keep them honest.

Post #5 and #6 :thumbsup: The shortest route is not always the best route. Put some effort into mechanical diagnosis and proper installation procedure of new lifters. This is not something you want to take shortcuts on. Otherwise, you will be risking the chance of drastic lifter/cam failure...

Congrats :thumbsup: Next: Burn out video.

If you are really trying to be"stone stock", why would you not put bias ply restoration tires like from Coker Tire? I don't see the purpose in putting little skinny modern radials on it.

Typically you might be able to remove the header bolts from the heads and squeeze the engine out. Hold the headers in place with bungees, wire, etc. You may have to remove the starter half way and it will depend on how your exhaust system is built. It's worth a try.

No worries. Right now I'm happy to just remember my name and address, so I pretty much just roll with anything.

Doh! Got it. Thanks.

Thanks. I'm going to try this. Where did you buy the Citric Acid and what brand was it?

I'm one day into the the Ms. being outta State for 3-1/2 weeks. Today I accomplished absolutely nothing. Tomorrow looks promising also.

20/20 my whole life but I had to start wearing readers around 55. I started with 1.25 and am up to 1.50 now. I also hate wearing them, but they are necessary. This is how I deal with it: 1) I bought about 20 cheap pairs at Walmart and have them laying everywhere, plus 1 set in each car. This...

Argh! That blows. Yes, when you buy new aftermarket gauges they come with sending units calibrated specifically for the instrument.

Uncle Google brought me here.

Wires can spark without shorting anything out permanently, so don't assume the worst. Hopefully you are ok. Your car has a special dash set up with electric luminescent gauges. It is really best rebuilt by an expert unless you plan on replacing the whole cluster with aftermarket gauges, in...

More correctly stated, it looks like you had to buy 1.78 to get one. That 70 looks like it was well worth having to drag the 71 home. :thumbsup:

I get mine from Denny's Driveshafts. Two so far, and soon an third. Dennys Driveshaft and Driveline Parts home of High Speed High RPM Balanced Steel and Aluminum Drive Shaft Specialist with Free Shipping on parts orders over $99.00