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My crate Hemi in 02 had hex head bolts, but I bolt a set from Mancini and they were the 10 point head bolts.

It would be smart to make sure battery connections are good. Low amp lights don't really mean much. I had that problem and had to take off neg. cable and reinstall on battery and that was my problem. Start with easy fixes first, you may be rewarded without tearing your car apart.

That was used on Hemi gen2 engines.

On my gen2 hemi I used the Meisere with one opening threaded to put in water sensor for Fuel Injection. It was a WN0028U and about $35.

My 58 Fury 350 blew out a freeze out plug and it was so unaccessible that I had to use a rubber plug to stop the leak. They do work especially when there is no room to pound it in.

I found the specs on the cam, Intake .534 & exhaust .518 duration 248 @.050 or 292*. 577 HP @ 6100 RPM with that cam and 2 4 barrel 1406 Edelbrock carbs. .

Back in 64 Dover De. was not over populated when I had to do that test. Today when I pass through there I don't recognize Dover at all. Coming from NYC it was the boondocks to me back then. There was no toll road and we had to drive up Rte. 13 to get to NJ Turnpike and cross the De. Memorial...

I remember that inspection for my 58 Fury when I was stationed at Dover AFB. That was back in 64 when I registered my car first time in De. from NY. Fortunately my car passed.

You say fuel pump seems to be working. Usually at low speed is ok, but under load at 50 mph and up weak pump can't deliver enough fuel to sustain speed. Don't completely rule out fuel pump yet.

The RB B distributor engines have a longer shaft because where it mounts in the block is further away from the cam gear that also turns the oil pump. Chrysler built RB 383's because the low block B engine was so popular, it gave Chrysler cars another option. I'm talking big Chryslers not...

There was a 383 RB back in 59 and up for 2 or 3 years in the Chryslers so of course won't fit the 361, you would need that spacer to install from a RB motor into a 350, 361 or low block 383.

Peter Bergman sells a rubber boot to fit over the coupler. I used it on my 71 Cuda with the Borgenson box. A lot easier than the Chrysler way and cleaner. He's a vendor, I know he is on the A bodies Forum. Probably here also.

I was 12 years old when the B motor came out so I really didn't follow what was going into what. I had a 58 Fury with the 350 and I thought I read somewhere that 350's were Plymouth and 361 in the Dodge because it was more upscale. As usual with Chrysler anything goes

I think it was used with Helen too.

When using old parts it might be best to consider the composite gaskets for better sealing, Unless head and block were surfaced milled.

The 71 Factory manual claims it to be .027 compressed. They don't give a figure before being compressed.

I've had it on my car, 71 Cuda for over 20 years and no problems. Just put one in a 74 Duster about 2 years ago. Nothing like a brand new part, especially for braking.

I had a lot of experience with installing 3 speed trannys from chevy and mopar. When I blew the clutch in my 68 Road Runner that was out of warranty I figured I'd do it myself. No trans jack and when that thing fell on my chest, it was like a ton of bricks fell on me. After putting in new clutch...

In the torque specs in the factory service manual (paper edition) they call for 3/8 -16 for water pump to the housing. They don't give length so you can figure that out. Also housing to block is a 3/8-16 bolt although longer.