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When a bunch of SM parts get put together and everything works out as planned. I sit back in amazement.
Don’t get me started on Speedmaster stories! LOL
I recently ran into someone having to replace the springs, valves (cupped tips) and guides (using oil) after a summer of driving on a set of Speedmaster heads. Tommy Boy comes to mind:
For pump gas if the compression is on the high end for the octane we often make the split 8 or more. I think it depends a lot on how well the exhaust flows. It is different also with a full exhaust on a street car. When you add more duration on the exhaust it allows the engine to pump more...
Some cams also have different acceleration rates between the intake and exhaust, and that changes the way the engine scavenges too and is another thing to consider when considering the LSA. When you compare the cams with less acceleration on the exhaust side to a single pattern cam, the single...
I think I recall you saying planning for 3000 stall. What gears and tires do you plan on running? And what weight do you think your car will be?
Keep in mind if your basing this new 440 combo from the experience of the previous SBC Elgins combos there are differences in how cams are ground...
We went that direction with a lot of our cars, still have some set up with tighter LSA’s, some single patterns. We got to the point on some cars that all more mid range push was going to do was make them hard to hook up, especially on the street. We went to bigger cams, bigger E/I splits, 8 to...
There are several reasons 400 SBC might like the narrower LSA, and why BB mopars usually are wider LSAs. The SBC usually have quite a bit less port velocity at the same RPMs as the BB Mopar, and the Chevy has a lot shorter intake track than the big block mopar. The lesser rod to stroke ratio...
.030” below the deck sound correct to me for 1970. Seems like I recall the 70 383 and 440s were about .030” to .040”shorter than the 68 and 69.
Our 383 is set up with pistons that are .004” from zero deck, and has the heads milled .070” to 72cc. It is just barely over 10. Not many factory...
I think there are several factors present on cam failures. For the most part, if you loose one lifter or two, either right after break in, or after several thousand miles, but after the failure, the rest of the cam looks good, that is either soft metal or improper machining on those lobes that...
I think HR5 is pretty much as good as it gets in these old street driven engines with flat tappet cams.
I once drained the oil on an engine that had a zddp additive in it, the zddp additive came out first, then the oil. Not exactly what you hope for with an zddp additive. Lol
The zddp is suppose to reinforce
the film thickness on the metal. If your driving your car too the point that the zddp is gone, you went way past your oil change, especially if that is for the cam break in.
If your adding a zddp additive to your oil after the break in, sending the oil samples...
To check all the boxes properly for street, drag racing and road course type handling it needs to be AWD for that much HP. I would use a proven solid axle in the back and focus on powering the front axle thru a IFS set up like a rally car.
Dang! Having something happen in an airplane thousands of feet off the ground is all kinds of scarry!
On a car with a mechanical and electric pusher pump that you need the fuel pressure only for wide open bursts you can wire in a WOT switch. The electric pump rarely runs then, no worries...
If it is already wired up I would absolute leave it and run both. Get a check valve system to bypass like the pic, add a electric switch to turn in off separately. Then you have a back up when the mechanical pump craps out, don’t have to run it if you don’t need it, but you can prime the engine...