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Joe, no sir. I am not an expert on those and would never pretend to know enough to write honestly about them. I'd suggest a factory shop manual and pay attention to the tools and safety suggestions they have. Tom

This one!

I do discuss some of the differences. In fact, one of the cars I featured was a 62 that uses the later pump and clutch retainers and input shaft. And, with the new pump and input shaft, he could use a late converter.

Hoover and all, thanks for taking the time to buy and read through it. I hope it will help when you decide to tear into one!

Not to steal VanDan's thunder but I had Eaton Detroit Spring make me a set with a 1" lift for my Barracuda. They are perfect.

Wow, that is awesome BUT the frame stiffeners are really tight to the outlets aren't they? I'd sure think the only way to handle this one would be to do as another suggested and add an extension to the outlet. But, the bend is going to be pretty sharp. Darn. It'll be kind of tough no matter...

FMAHANNAH/Early Auto, There is another way to do it if you have a way to cut flanges. If not but if you have patterns of both, I may be able to help out. Tom

I have had this heat riser valve assembly sitting around long enough and I am tired of seeing it. I hate to toss it. Does anyone need it? It came from my pal's 400 four barrel Satellite Sebring Plus. The valve has been carefully ground/cut loose from the shift. Pay shipping from 64086 and it...

I take ours and always grab some left by others. Should have worked for Safeway...

They did all they could to be sure the pipes did not bang into torsion bars as the engine rocked. They put flats to clear the crossmember and the ground, in some cases.

Stock 340s in 69 were way worse.

If it was shoved in, it should pop out on its own. They can't have shoved things over the tail pipe and into the muffler. I guess you could tap on the pipe with a hammer and listen as you do and see if one area has a dull thud rather than a ring.

Fiberglass won't. If the case is not distorted, no way that 1/2" thick section of glass matting can come out the small perforations of the three tubes.

A good backfire could open up the skins/shells and let the fiberglass escape into the end cavities and then out the pipe. Take photos of the mufflers' front and rear view or at least one from the side if you can.

FMa, the only way it came out is if you have the case outer skin/wrap/cover separating from the inner. They can't blow the glass out if the muffler is truly intact and as built inside. They usually warranty issues like that so I'd contact the Dynomax folks. They are great people.

The Super Turbo matting is only about 1/2" thick and wraps aorund the three center tubes. The piece looks a lot bigger BUT without any size reference, it is hard to tell.

Like R413 says, it is a good one to start with. I crossed yours over to the next year and if not much changed, yours should have had these parts inside it when new (I suspect). Long accumulator spring, 3.8 servo lever, standard KD servo with a long inner and green outer spring, the governor may...

On this ~ five-year anniversary of the release of CarTech’s Chrysler TorqueFlite A-904 & A-727 Transmissions: How to Rebuild, I want to thank all of you who bought it, read it, commented on it, and are using it. It took a while to write and photograph images for it but it has proven to be a good...

Tom, that is a pretty darn complete kit! I'd only add the booted rear seal (far right on the extension housing row) and HD Shift shaft seal if it were mine. Not sure that company sells either but it'd be worth asking. Tom Hand

Tom, Any idea how you plan to rebuild it? Stock or better than stock? Tom Hand