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I don't know what to say about the pistons. My '66 Coronet had 12.5:1 pistons when I took it apart, and it ran fine on pump gas. The only thing it would do is kick over a few times unless shut off in gear. Note also the 1/8" oil ring. They're going to be replaced with correct 10.5:1...

When I took my Hemi apart, only one of the rods has a squirt hole. The other 7 do not. Of course, I would assume that these are not the original rods to the engine.

Excellent advice- unless you can afford to throw that much $ away.

Here you go: It is made by Design Technology, 630 920 1300. www.tinytach.com.

I'll get the name of it tomorrow.

Turns out I need a whole set- for both heads.

I had a business in Nassau County, on Long Island. The local school super was knocking down $505K per year. My share as a business owner was about $500 per week. A starter home in Syosset has a typical tax bill of about $10K per year. If you have a newer high-end house, taxes are measured...

What happened to "Freakin Rican"?

Sold

I have one and use a carburetor cleaning solution. Avoid caustics like CLR or you'll find your aluminum parts went on an unplanned diet.

I do. Took two senders b4 I found one that ohmed out correctly. It comes off the "full" mark relatively quickly (a hemi will do that), but at least now I know how much fuel I really have.

Just spoke with Ray Barton, he can fix it no problem. I'm in the process of disassembling the whole engine. It appears that the cylinders are coming in at .010 over, but there are no marks on the pistons. Time will tell what I have here. When this is done, it's going to be one nice hemi car.

I found the oil pressure problem- too much clearance in the lifter bores. Oil pours from the bores when I run the oil pump. It has about .008-.009" clearance- just about enough for oversize lifters if they're still available. I have a call into Ray Barton to see what they can do.

Got it out today, thanks for all your suggestions. Note the hardware store head bolts, whoever did it last didn't even use hardened washers. I'll get it into the stand tomorrow and start work. It also has what look like sleeves in the passenger side lifter bores, what's that all about...

Making progress today. I can't believe how easily this car comes apart. Had the heat tubes removed in no time. Even the exhaust pipe bolts came loose with no problem. So far, many fasteners were not torqued at all. I'll be curious to see what I find when I get inside the engine.

I don't have the capability to remove it from the bottom. And yes, everything will be marked for balance purposes. The only issue I see offhand is getting access to two of the bell housing bolts on the passenger side that are under the heat tubes. I haven't studied it from under the car to...

I'm getting ready to pull the hemi on my '66 Coronet. It is an automatic car. I want to leave the transmission in place, and just disconnect the converter from the flex plate and leave it behind. The heat tubes are installed on the engine. Just looking for any shortcuts or pitfalls to avoid.

Expensive, too.

Here are some more pictures, including one of the WT's on the car.

If the pump was turning backwards, it would still flow in the proper direction, but at a reduced level. Regarding flow, more flow=more cooling. That's why the thermostat opens as the engine gets hotter. There's a smaller temperature change in the engine and the radiator, but the amount of...