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IR laser readings on those headers will probably be inaccurate and will definitely vary depending on where you're taking the temp. Emissivity impacts the accuracy of your reading, and shiny/reflective objects are the most difficult to get an accurate reading on. So on your headers, cylinder 2...

Guess I was lucky... I just bought a cheap one from Advance when mine went out on the side of the road and it lasted years until I sold the truck. Like you said, it's easy to replace. Easiest water pump I've ever dealt with.

I just installed one on my hemi. Not the same windage tray you're using, but it worked out just fine.

It won't explain your lack of different speeds, but that voltage drop is unfortunately pretty "normal" with the crappy electrical connections. If you test the hot going into your heater switch compared to going out, I bet you see a big drop there. Probably another significant drop at the...

Just down the road from me. The Charger has been for sale for awhile, so I'm guessing it's real rough. Super Bee wasn't for sale last time I saw the Charger listing... agree it looks to be priced too high.

My guess is something small clogged up a passage in the carb... probably somewhere in the idle circuit. That's why it'll run when you give it throttle. I'd pull the bowl and metering block and blow out all the passages.

Good catch... a pin hole like you experienced is usually a good warning that things are deteriorating. You can use an ultrasonic thickness gauge to evaluate these things too, but if you don't have access to one it doesn't make much sense to buy vs just getting a compressor.

Got a chance to pull a spring and get measurements. Accurate to within a few thousandths; only had my cheap calipers available. Height- 2.450" Outer Spring OD- 1.540" Outer Spring ID- 1.130" Inner Spring OD- 1.005 Inner Spring ID- 0.725" Retainer Inner Step- 0.710" Retainer Outer Step- 1.110"...

I agree, and I've tried to reach out to them for information. Unfortunately like most places these days, they've not gotten back to me. The retainers are Comp Cams 732-16. I don't see anything listed for spring cups. I'll probably remove a spring this weekend to get physical measurements...

They're MPP heads from back before Edelbrock made them. PN 4529336. Engine builder bought them as a bare head rather than pre-assembled. Looks like they take all factory valvetrain.

Appreciate the help.

I'm finally getting my 528 hemi ready for install (hopefully this winter) and have decided to replace the valve springs. The engine has been sitting assembled almost 20 years, so I figure it's cheap insurance. The engine build sheet lists the installed springs as EWK 960-16, which I can't seem...

I've done the same job on my wife's Durango and need to do it again... quite the pain, but I didn't have to remove the manifold. Did you put in OEM mounts? I put in cheap aftermarket and they failed within 15k. Just called Dodge and the OEM are backordered with no eta.

That's normal for the hydraulic bearings in Tremecs. I noticed the same thing putting a T56 in my son's RX7, and turns out that's the way it's designed. Lots of F-bodys out there with lots of miles, so that's good enough for me

The switch is definitely good, as it does exactly what the test procedure linked above does, so I'm good there. The cam, however, not so sure about... I'll have to go look. Might have to order one and figure it our from there. Thanks.

Interesting. Do you have a picture of the cam and switch, or a description of where it's located? I'll have a correct motor on the way soon, but maybe I'm not 100% out of the weeds yet. I definitely have an incorrect motor now, so at least that's one problem that'll be rectified.

Appreciate the info. I'm surprised O'Reilly had a motor for the concealed application; most places list a replacement but only have the non-concealed when you actually get it. After getting measurements from Car #4, the shaft from his '72 is the same as what I have. My motor works perfectly...

Flat on three sides, round on the fourth.

I've been trying to research if the 72+ will work... the year doesn't matter to me as long as it'll work. Seems like the output shaft may be different? Any chance you could verify the shaft is the same as I currently have?

Trying to find a 2-speed wiper motor for my 71 RR. Previous owner installed a motor for non-concealed wipers... trying to find a correct one so I can get them to park correctly. Thanks.