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@PRHeads, have you had a chance to test those new comp Hyd roller lifters other than the one big mopar you dyno’d last fall? Those sounded like a good option from that test.

I don’t get the whole stay stock stroke to save money. He’s already got the stroker crank on the shelf. Good rods and pistons cost the same for a 440 as they do a stroker. Personally I’d use cnc stealths and paint them orange. That’ll keep the stock look with more potential. Port the six pack...

I love eastwood. I painted the engine in the roadrunner with it and it still looks great 6 years later. Did my hemi with it as well. I shot both with a gun.

I always gap my second rings .002-.004 bigger than the top. Open them all up.

Love the arguments :lol:

You need to add a 10-32 brass set screws. You use that to shrink the passage to the transfer slot. Very common modification. 4150’s I usually start around .078 and work from there. You will need a numbered drill set as well. Harbor freight has them reasonably. See pic below, inner hole. That...

How far out are the idle screws? If they’re more than a turn out I’d leave the IFR alone and add transfer slot restriction. What’s the IAB size?

What the air fuel at off idle cruise? Did you try jetting the primary’s down to see if it helps? A lot depends on where the main circuit takes over. If you need to lean the cruise prior to the boosters being on the IFR,IAB play into that. But, if the idle is good and you have good adjustment on...

My buddies dart ran about the same ET’s as the roadrunner through his 3” exhaust. When we uncapped it, it picked up .3 tenths.

I think the angles are ok, but I’m going to recheck them. It was defiantly sucking air and oil from the bottom. I probably messed up by not gluing it down. I didn’t want to have to pry on that magnesium to take it apart in the future.

Well dyno day didn’t go quite to plan. Spent all day Monday fighting a reversion problem with the cross ram. Tried 2 sets of carbs, different coil, crank trigger, re-sealed the lid. Pretty much threw the kitchen sink at it and it would not straighten out. I was offered a little time the next day...

I look at my vacuum at cruise. Say 45 mph. Lay into the gas like you’re going to pass someone. Where the vacuum drops to I usually set the PV number close to that. It’s an enrichment circuit, and I like to use it. With 2.5 PV the only time they provide extra fuel would be at WOT. I promise you...

Generally no. The PV only contributes extra fuel when the boosters are active and vacuum low. Therefore it has no affect on idle, even when the PV is open. Usually if the boosters are active you have high vacuum unless you’re accelerating. I have ran into situations where it may need to be...

Getting ready to get after my cross ram tuning. I have two sets of carbs I plan to run on the dyno. Original 770’s and a pair of vacuum 850’s. I’ll jet for WOT. I’ll dial in the low speed circuits once it goes in the car.

That recommendation from holley never made any sense. Adjust the power valve sizing to enrich where needed in transition from cruise to say passing gear. There’s times I run a higher number PV than I even have for idle vacuum.

I just used flat out gaskets on mine. Glued to the heads with weatherstrip adhesive. I vasolined the intake side. RTV always on China walls.

Is was around 4-5 weeks

I just had bullet grind a roller for my buddies 499 street/strip car.

Finished my first set of carbs up last night. One more set to go, prime the pump and put some plugs in it and it’s ready to dyno.

Yes TF’s. It ran decent with a solid flat tappet right at .600 lift. Went 10.60’s with a 3.54. Doing the cam swap and making a converter adjustment. See if we can widdle a few more tenths out of it.