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The F6 looks nice. I've sprayed F5 single stage in the past. The green shades seem to vary the most depending on the color of primer.

Looks great!

Is that a factory color in your engine bay?

Thanks.

Do the KB237 pistons have individual valve reliefs, or the slot across the entire piston? Most places have a generic picture.

I don't have an exact measurement for you, but the rear shocks should not top out at any point during the the rear suspension rebound travel. Rough estimate - the rear height is taking up at least 3 inches of shock travel.

If you have stock front spring hangers and rear shackles the springs must be over-arched. Additional leaves over stock wouldn't raise the car that much. I'll bet that the shocks are almost at full extension.

This may be true on some of the later model mopar brake systems, but not on the one in the OP's question. The piston in mid 60's and early 70's distribution block has limited movement and makes a hard stop in either direction completing the electrical contact with the brake warning light...

Smaller bore rear wheel cylinders are supposed to help with the disc/drum conversion proportioning. I have a factory disc brake 69 road runner that has the small rear drums and a factory proportioning valve in the rear brake line. Early attempts at disc/drum proportioning I guess.

Here's your Gen III stock bottom end with one turbo:

I have no experience with 360 block. The weakness of the 400 and 440 is the main web area, shows up in the 750 and above HP range/ couple hundred passes. 230 block may last a little longer. Did you replace your Volare Gen III hemi crank/rods/ pistons? Is it turbocharged, and how much boost?

400 block at 800-900 hp = cracked main webs.

Thanks. I wasn't aware of the location of that vacuum port hole in the throttle bore, make sense now. The plate starts to uncover that port at about 1 turn of the idle speed screw.

Quick update. HalifaxHops was right. I pulled the carb and found that the transfer slots were about 1/4 uncovered with my settings. I backed off the throttle position screw to see if the plates would cover the transfer slots and it wouldn't completely cover them. I noticed that the 4-speed...

Thanks for the help, appreciate it. I'll try and drop the idle to 750 ish..............it may not like it though.

I wrote that down somewhere, will have to look. Can't see it with just the distrib cap removed. I take it that the choke pull off port is supposed to have full vacuum at idle, while the distrib vacuum port does not?

Cam is hydraulic flat tappet 227/235 @.050 480/488 lift. Runs really nice, just trying to get vacuum advance to work if possible.

Yes, I set mechanical to 34. With no vacuum advance and port plugged I'm about 17 at idle. Distributor has light springs and slot stop plate. Again, vacuum port connected advances distributor past 40 at idle.

If I connected to manifold vac that would advance the timing like it is doing now, correct? What timing is acceptable at idle?

Thanks! For some reason I have vacuum on this port with idle at 850 rpm. Idle air bleeds work as they should and the throttle position screw is only 1-1/4 turn in.