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Okay, did not know they had a similiar :thumbsup: Im on my third Centerforce dual, I like'em - was thinking on the dxf plate on this last change but my shop did not have it in stock so i went with dual again. The last one lasted 3 seasons and I burn alot of tire:lol:

That looks like Centerforce dual not Mcleod.

Probably exactly what happend this time.

When adjusting the pedal free play to around 1" in the cab? should there be any clearance between throwout bearing and the pressure plate?

Decided to take everything down and re-center the disk again so it must have been alignment issues! Went in like butter, moneyshot right away. So I guess take the time and check everything, also this time I hade my father to help me align the trans before sliding it in, alot easier then doing...

Guess I could mount the z bar and fork and have someone depress the pedal and see if it would slide in. Appreciate all the input guys:thumbsup:

Kinda, put in Reverse and turned it, even turned the crank over to see if it would pop in the last bit. Last time I slide motor on to the trans it was almost to easy, so I was thinking i'll be done with clutch swap in like 4hours and now it's 11hours later and still haven't slide in the last...

Yup. Im replacing what I put in 3 seasons ago, but that last time I had the trans left under the car still mounted in the tail. Maybe I'll just unbolt,clean and re-center the damn thing. Should be done by now :praying:

So, putting a new clutch in ( manual ). Won't go in the pilot bearing the last bit .5" left slides like butter until that. Alignment tool slides all the way easy and I payed good attention when centered the disc and cross pattern when thighten then torque it in 2step for final. Ive only slide...

So really nothing fancy but It had probably happened sometime before, fried the clutch a bit. Two seasons reasonably hard used (for fun) A little mess with the connection of a line lock but which was resolved when changing the brand. So on Wednesday we would "only" warm up a bit, starting at 1...

:BangHead: thats how it's been and now it works, easy panncakes:popcorn2:

Breaks works and releases like they should, will complain and test a new line lock. Must be something wrong in this one, even if I don't even press the buttom just push on the brake pedal it won't let the pressure release and then starts spamming the buttom it releases the pressure - weird!

That i am aware off. Just replaced all the hoses and brakelines, thats why im clueless. Must be something with line lock valve

Yes, it's mounted as shown up. Brakes probably works fine if I bypass it but I want the line lock on sticky tires

Maybe I should take off the little "T fitting" they want u to add and just mount it between the Master and the pressure block

Yeah that's what I was thinking but cant figure out what causing it. I hear it locking and releasing when I push the buttom. If the car sits for a longer time the break pressure fade and the car roll on it's on again in N.

No did not replace the Master cylinder. It stops great just wont release like it did before I replaced all the stuff.

Okay so the longer end off the spring goes behind the adjuster. Did not have the auto adjuster on before, was only a shorter but much "beefier" spring over the adjuster screw earlier also

Did not grease those spots, maybe I should?