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As mentioned..... pick taller pistons to keep your compression ratio up since you're boring the block anyway. I've run 340/360 heads on 318's and the motors ran well. No idea on hp numbers though

Great idea! "Maybe" make someone happy and build yourself a better motor

These guys are all correct. I would suggest, even on a budget, to remove both heads and have a basic valve job, valve guides/seals and resurfacing done (basic head rebuild)...both heads. I would also inspect the camshaft/timing chain/lifters while in there.

My 2-cents.... I had a similar issue with some iron heads years ago. The machinist used a "super heli coil" (name?) which is about the diameter of a nickel. That black nickel has a threaded hole in it that fits the header bolts/studs.

I've had good luck with those clamps. I prefer adjustable pinion snubbers too if that matters.

Well, the one thing it would help is that I wouldn't be using the factory-style valley pan intake gasket...ONLY one pair of paper gaskets to seal the intake. I've done that once in the 80's before aftermarket valley covers were available. I cut up the factory valley pan & used a bunch of RTV...

Maybe a dumb question....do p/s boxes have the "worm gear" like manual boxes do? I remember tightening my worm gear slightly years ago to remove slop

You are best off to re-build your original sending unit. The aftermarket ones are junk

1. No 2. Yes

I've not done this, but I would be VERY tempted to use a carb adapter since you can buy them off the shelf at O'Reilly for cheap.

Check your grounds brother...it's cheaper

Yeah, I modified the crap out of my Champion and the fan shroud to make it fit. It works though

And "maybe" adjust the power valve. I think the rule of thumb is to run a power valve that is half your idle vacuum....so you need 13" Hg vacuum. And yes, the 6.5 is stock.

These guys are on the right track. As long as the ends are correct, all you need is any cable that no more than about 4"-6" too long (they can bind if they're a foot too long)....otherwise, any one that fits is correct. You do get some "wiggle room" where the cable clamps onto the bracket. If...

I'm not sure what was original, but they screw right into the plastic of the rear/side interior panels, no nuts or anything

I'm not sure of the hole size. There is definitely a "left" and "right" one. Also, the key is to keep the holes "in a row", but left/right doesn't matter to much if it's not perfect. The retainer clips can slide left/right a little bit if needed.

You'll see a noticeable improvement with 3.91 or 4.10 gears, BUT you basically can't drive on the highway anymore. Sure, you can run 100hp-150hp nitrous on a stock engine

So.....you can either connect it to the 2nd un-used port as described above OR put a "T" in the one port you're already using

Carburetor base or air cleaner base?

Somebody here knows, but I think the Carters are in the 625cfm to 650cfm range. Some factory '70 440's came with 600cfm Holley's (I think the non-high-performance ones...like New Yorkers, etc). Be advised that many Holley's have clearance issues with factory intake manifolds (& that Carters...