Search results

I put one of these in my 69 tic-top-tach, and set the calibration against a bench tachometer. RTE 67-74 Tach kit - rte

Can't copy a link for the first one?

The suvivor cars can be just as much work as a nut and bolt restoration. Love your car, good luck!

Post them up here. We're all about helping.

The piston isn't pushed back all the way in this pic, I know, but here's the opposite side w a pad held up to it. Seems like the tab should go over farther?

Nugeon. That was the other brand. I generally think of calipers as indestructible, save maybe a hone on the bore to clean up some pits. On Rock Auto, it shows both sides, L and R, in Raybestos brand but when you attempt to put it in the cart, it shows up as unavailable. I wonder if these...

I didn’t have a dial caliper with me, just two 6” steel rules. Rotors are new (as are the pads) and around 1” +. I was puzzled by the width of the caliper being 1/16” less.

Good friend of mine has a issues with some Cardone brand 73-76 A body calipers. New rotors, pads and the calipers, no clearance when assembled, he says it's a bit tight. We popped the piston out of the bore and measured the depth to the opposing side. It is 1/16" less then the factory cores...

Shop looks nice. :thumbsup:

I thought this Iggy pop voice over commercial was cool, from a few years ago:

I know it's a haul - do you attend Carlisle? Asking for a friend w a '65.

Back in the day, we were taught to back out the regulator first before opening the tank. Agree with rebuilding them. I'd get new hoses perhaps, if they're dry. Safety first. Victor is a well known brand.

Not on my two-owner 69 AC car.

Almost thought they bolted the intake on backwards. Can't be, the choke well is correct. Did they get a recessed plug when the vacuum port was in front?

You could get A/C in a 68 R/T charger. Run the Holley.

The bowl vent baffle stop light to moderate fuel slosh. The older ones were brass, which is what I'd replace it with. Pic upside down:

Hopefully you made measurements and braces before the floor was removed. The diagrams in the FSM are priceless. The factory tolerance was 1/4" or more in many cases. Test fit everything. This is the time consuming part, more so than the welding.

Correct. Port is known as the "hot idle compensator" You can find them in factory 4bbl Hollys on the side, under a rectangular cover. A little bi-metal strip that opens at some per-determined temperature. https://www.carburetor-blog.com/knowledge-base/what-does-the-hot-idle-compensator-do/

I'd recommend reading the manual online first, if it's on their site. I have the thumbwheel version in my 69. The controls take some getting used to. The assembly wasn't a bolt-in like a factory radio. I had to assemble the buttons, display, and thumbwheels to the chassis - all separate...

Usually the A/C cars got the factory Holleys for some reason. A few folks rob the throttle shaft and put them in bigger carbs for a "factory" look.