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This is a marathon, not a sprint race. Well done on getting going again, you are doing great work!

I aint a snowflake, but deriding somebody based on where he lives is pretty ****. I feel sorry for the OP coming and asking for some advice and it devolves into a chest beating ego debate. Embarrassing and pathetic.

You absolutely will need sealant on the ends. I always threw the gaskets out and just filled it with good silicone sealant.

Hence why I built my own relay/timer system to run pump 15 sec on key on (I have 2 AFBs to fill) and to to turn pump off on oil pressure loss. I never considered an in-tank pump, perhaps I should have. I thought it was more for EFI. Just so glad vapor lock issue was sorted as my car was at...

Really?! The Wix filter will return to tank (through an in-built restriction) what ever is at the top of the filter, be it liquid fuel, or if fuel vapours are present (that will float above the liquid fuel), then vapours... Hope it solved any issues you had cudak888. It solved all my vapor...

LOL!

Yeah, that is odd. I'd suspect there is more to this...

No, a stronger spring will allow the step-up to react faster to falling vacuum and enrichen...

you will be thankful once you have

My Wix filter has a built in .060" orifice. You can see it looking into the return nipple.

What type of positive seals? My first set were teflon and they were ****. Loads of blue smoke on start ups and smoke when full throttle, and I thought it was bad rings. Changed to viton seals, all problems gone.

Weak springs would cause a lean condition, not rich.

My vapour lock issues were horrendous. I tried insulating fuel lines and carb insulators and they did jack, return line solved everything.

Stock location just before carb for Wix filter is best. 1/4" nipple should be at 12 noon postion (as bubbles float) and yes, return line should go back to tank. Many modify their pickup/sender with an extra nipple, some add a nipple into filler neck. Solved my vapour lock issues 100%.

I went through this a few years ago as my rear was set up by an idiot. Original 62 housing and axles and 742 3.23 clutch SG, but had no thrust button fitted to SG and no shims between backing plates and housing, so about 1/4" axle end float... Sourced thrust button from Dr Diff but was unable to...

Fingers crossed all goes well Wietse. Great thread here that gives me info and confidence if and when I decide to pull my 727 and give it a once over.

I modified a stock 5/16" sending unit by adding my own bulkhead fitting made by drilling out a 1/4" stainless steel bolt. Would probably have been easier to solder in a 1/4" splice into the filler neck instead.

First question. Is the engine stock or close to stock? If so, and the original carb is in reasonable shape, then I'd have the original restored by either of the above aforementioned shops. It will look and perform like new when you get it back.

Not to be sexist, but I'd say more of a case of got him in:monkeyleft:

Proportioning valve only limits pressure to the rear brakes and has no effect on left/right. I'd say it sounds more like you have a seized slave cylinder. If it were me, I'd jack the rear up, take off wheels and slide off the brake shoes. Have somebody else apply brakes gently while you watch...