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I used a set of Schumacher Tri Ys on my 67 for several years now.
They are a mid length, not at all like the shorty headman but not quite as long as full tube.
Built well, install was not a pain at all.
You can also swap out a full size mopar starter with the left side in place.
The only parts...
That all depends on were your hangers are mounted.
Also the length of the aftermarket tips and the placement of the hook on those aftermarket tips.
If you need to you can allways reposition the hangers.
Back in the 70s we used Cyclone brand headers on a couple B bodies.
Those Cyclones were as cheap as it gets.
Running full size starters then , had to unbolt the header and pull a mount bolt to swap the always header cooked starters.
We became pretty damn efficient at beating the crap out of...
Thrush had a version of those round cans with a built in header collector flange and gasket in the box.
Full length headers a pair of thrush header muffs and no pipe after.
Add a lumpy cam and you had the fast car in town.:lol:
Damn we had fun.
I just use the regular old felpro exhaust gaskets from the parts store for my headers.
Never blow out, only time I have to swap is if I have a header off the head.
I have all studs and star washers under the fine thread nuts.
Well I ordered a pair of summits 2 chamber flow master knock offs.
Had to add a set of brake shoes and a tee shirt to get to $ 100 and get that free shipping lol.
The comments / reviews on the muffs were loud and drone, they should be perfect.
:thumbsup:
This is one place that my hearing loss works to my benefit.
I have had hearing aids for years, the set I have now are adjustable.
I can tune out the drone. :lol:
I need to pick a set of mufflers now.
I like the flowmaster 40 sound .
I have triY headers and 2 1/2 " pipe all the way to the bumper.
Ready to try a different brand though , still want to stay with a loud sounding set.
Borla, Dyno Max ?
End of summer my old 67 developed a vibration type noise or buzz without any felt vibration.
I had it on our hoist a few times trying to track it down , car running ect.
All hangers are rubber and good, checked for any places exhaust would or could be touching body , springs , tank.
Walking...
When you paint headers or exhaust manifolds & pipe your heat rated paint needs to be tempered / baked on.
No paint will hold forever but doing a heat cycle with cool down a couple times before road use will help it last for awhile.
Eastwood used to make a cast iron / grey colored exhaust...
all of your exhaust manifold bolts go into coolant on a big block. Sometimes permatex will not do the trick on a wet hole.
You need to drain down your coolant below the heads , blow them out with some air and use a heat rated PTFE pipe sealer / pipe dope.
If its steam rated its good. put it...
USA quality control is not even close to what it once was in the auto parts industry.
At our shop we get time after time boxed parts from Chevy , Chrysler , Ford , ect that the box is perfect, no crush , no holes. but the part inside has damage.
Headlamps , tail lamps , fenders and hoods , doors...
Dont use it. Just have a exhaust shop bend a pipe that fits. If its to the 45 degree stage you may wish to move back down the pipe and start the transition sooner to get to the angle needed.
Also headman has a ball / socket 3" set up to line up miss matched exhaust.
5 years ago I got lucky and found a used set of tri - ys on C list. They were the bare steel / painted ones,
I picked them up the same day. I really like them, most trouble free set of headers I have ever owned.
So even though they are not being built now keep a eye open at swap meets , flea...
As far as header gaskets I have had the best luck with regular fel pro metalic exhaust manifold gaskets.
Re tighten once after the 1st heat cycle, star washers used for lock washers.
That and having rubber ended pipe hangers so things can flex a little.