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Love the arguments :lol:

You need to add a 10-32 brass set screws. You use that to shrink the passage to the transfer slot. Very common modification. 4150’s I usually start around .078 and work from there. You will need a numbered drill set as well. Harbor freight has them reasonably. See pic below, inner hole. That...

How far out are the idle screws? If they’re more than a turn out I’d leave the IFR alone and add transfer slot restriction. What’s the IAB size?

What the air fuel at off idle cruise? Did you try jetting the primary’s down to see if it helps? A lot depends on where the main circuit takes over. If you need to lean the cruise prior to the boosters being on the IFR,IAB play into that. But, if the idle is good and you have good adjustment on...

I look at my vacuum at cruise. Say 45 mph. Lay into the gas like you’re going to pass someone. Where the vacuum drops to I usually set the PV number close to that. It’s an enrichment circuit, and I like to use it. With 2.5 PV the only time they provide extra fuel would be at WOT. I promise you...

Generally no. The PV only contributes extra fuel when the boosters are active and vacuum low. Therefore it has no affect on idle, even when the PV is open. Usually if the boosters are active you have high vacuum unless you’re accelerating. I have ran into situations where it may need to be...

Getting ready to get after my cross ram tuning. I have two sets of carbs I plan to run on the dyno. Original 770’s and a pair of vacuum 850’s. I’ll jet for WOT. I’ll dial in the low speed circuits once it goes in the car.

That recommendation from holley never made any sense. Adjust the power valve sizing to enrich where needed in transition from cruise to say passing gear. There’s times I run a higher number PV than I even have for idle vacuum.

Fuel pressure won’t fix the surging. Mine did it for a bit when we first out the TF in. My dad was tuning it at that time. I think he worked on the distributor and fattened the idle circuit a touch. When I swapped to a looser converter it completely disappeared as it was only doing it in gear as...

Holley’s don’t like fuel pressure, just volume. Good pump with some .110 N/S with 5-5.5 pounds is all that’s needed on the factory carbs. I’ll be digging into mine here a little more serious here soon. My MP cross ram on the 505 had great drivability (I drove it a ton). I plan to really dial in...

I use an innovative LM2. I just put it into whatever car I’m tuning at the time. It’s been in several, Works well. Also pretty easy to use. It will data log and such but I haven’t got into really needing that. It can also run dual sensors which I’ll be using when I tune my cross ram’d Hemi. It...

Usually dyno guys aren’t neasesarely carb tuners. I’d shrink the primary side down. Run the big squirter in the back. With most of my dominators and most everything else I get by with a 35 in the front or even less.

I’ll be honest, there’s no golden rule. Usually takes some experimenting to see what the combo likes. There’s so many things that play into the combo other than the carburetor. I was building a lot of dominators for a little while. I would test them on my road runner. I can tell you that even...

Sounds like its struggling, go for the overkill. There an online chart for those pump cams.

Usually the stubble is secondary side related if the primary side drives around good. Needs more pump cam or squirter. Pvcr is to adjust WOT once you have the primary jetting correct for high speed cruise and the secondary jetting is close.

Arm should have zero play. The clearence holley recommends is at WOT so the pump isn’t bottomed out.

Blue 427 cam is the most aggressive with a 30cc pump. They work well. When you adjust the arms you take all the play out correct?

made a bracket to mount it up where I wanted it.

I know them well, I have a set I run on a stroker. I had to add adjustable idle circuits to make them work right on my application.