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Glad you got them in. Adjust with no dial caliper, left side in and tight. Tap axle in with dead blow or wood block. Right side , back off ring, axle flange tight except for the nut for the lock pawl. Tap axle end, back to left side Tap it again, right side turn your ring just to the point of...

Did you install new axle bearings ? I got to ask if you have are they and the retainer pressed all the way home ? If it's the splines it should slip in with a little forward , reverse rocking. If you have had them in and out a few times check your seals. Sorry your having trouble.

I lifted this pic off the A body sight. Small block & edelbrock carb. Yours looks like a later model set up, Yours can be made to work fine. To much slot ? Add a pan head screw and nut through the slot , move it the direction you need then lock it down. Not enough slot ? Lengthen it with a die...

I wasn't going to say anything and let him get some exercise . :lol:

I see it, you guys did make the right call , Rod journals look like they needed turned anyway. These old engines you never know what you going to see or find.

What ?

Ok.... sniff 1st and wear protection. :lol:

The end play should be .08 thou give or take a bit. Dial indicator comes in handy, or you can do it without and be fine. Back off the adjuster ring a few turns. Axles in and retain bolts tight except for the one that holds the ring locking pawl on the right side. Dead blow hammer to seat left...

Couple things I will toss in, good time to pull the old ones & replace the inner seals. If you do not have a seal driver set you can use a piece of 2" pvc pipe with a coupler or cap on the end , that coupler / cap is very close to the seal dia. Put a new seal under the retain plates and set your...

Rotella or a zinc oil like Gibbs or Lucas hot rod, 10-30, 10-40, 15-40 , that's what I have used over the last few years. Let's inclued axle bearing preference also to save band width. Timkin here.

Just for the heck of it, pull the rear wheels and brake drums. Grab the axle ends and yank back and forth and up and down. Should be zero movment.

Like posted above. Change the filter to a wix or napa gold and add back lost oil. 10/30 is ok for weight. And if that gauge is going to be on or in the car, go with a copper or braided line.

Looks like you found your noise. :drinks: When you do the oil change a new air filter element would be good also. When they get real bad it cuts air flow and can cause a run rich condition.

Here is the cam specs I am running in my low compression 440. the card on the Comp xe262H - 10 I installed shows. gross valve lift - 462 int 470 ex dur @.006 tappet lift - int 25 btdc 57 abdc Ex 69 bbdc 21 atdc specs for cam installed 106.0 intake centerline dur @.50 int 218 ex 224 lobe lift int...

If your holley is tuned good I would try to find a little better dual plane and get a good curve on the distributor. A lazy distributor will really mess with you trying to tune.

Pretty much the same as mine, I have 452s on , a fast curve on the distributor and a little smaller cam. Headers, Preformer intake and a thermoquad. The old gal will smoke the tires and run 120 , I'm fine with that.

If the bottom end is in decent shape myself I would leave it. Run a compression test to verify. The 516s give you a little bump in compression but from what I have heard the 452s flow a little better. So... If the 516s are good run them. Like Rem posted ,gears will help. The thermoquad style...

Forgive me Kaj, but I have to ask if your dealing with detonation (ping and knocking ) or a miss fire ?

I can not think of a good reason not to pre oil it.

Engine has to come up , unbolt the trans, the linkage and convertor, lines ect and support trans. Radiator and fan out. Batt, unhooked, mount bolts out, Get that sucker up to eye level then use a hole saw with the same Inside dia. As the stud. If you need to thin the hole saw down a bit. Or...