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You would probably be better off to push a dent out than pull because of the strength and thickness of the old sheet metal. Those paintless dent removers are designed for late model sheet metal, thin and springy. Ask a PDR tech and see what they recommend. Most won't even work on a old car with...
I have to tell a story and I'll try to keep it short. Back in the 70's and 80's, GM had what they called "Firethorn Metallic. It was applied with an electrostatic charge applied to the body. The charge was turned off and the metallic would lay down. We had a new Riviera that went in for some...
I can see those differences and my eyesight isn't all that good. Apparently I'm not colorblind though. :lol: The pearl will mess with that. It will be a different hue at different angles and in different light. Some of the new colors are beautiful in direct sun but are grey and chalked out in...
FYI The main difference between acrylic and poly is that acrylic paint is water-based while polyurethane paint is usually oil-based. Mopar used poly in the 60's when most of our cars were built.
They put pearl in about everything nowdays. Even old formulas. Add clear coat on top and it looks nowhere close to the original polyurethane enamel. Many properly restored cars use the old stuff for texture and low gloss.
I have seen many engine compartments painted with single stage and the body with base/clear. Base clear under the hood looks too overdone to me. Just my opinion.
You worded it right. No problems there. I have issues with members that jump in these threads and try to sell you something you didn't ask for. THat's what sale threads are for.
I bought patch panels from Layson's for my 66 Dart and the body shop was quite impressed with the gauge thickness and fit. I bought used trunk drops from Desert Valley because no one repops them.