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Yours is prettier

I wasn’t endorsing the latter, just posted as a contrast. First one is great IMHO.

Here’s another approach w/o precision tools.

1.Kind of, but start with old pinion shim, measure and go from there. Diff ratio ring gears, for same rear are not same thickness. 2. Kind of 3. Yes, In addition to pinion depth, there’s pinion preload, and back lash that range is set by manufacturer. In the end everything is in the wear...

I didn’t know much about rebuilding rears, but I know a lot more after watching this 4 part how to. Still will probably have trouble if I tackle one and I don’t have all these tools but I understand the theory and practical a lot better than I did. I watched a lot of other vids over past 4...

Why are you changing the gears? I may have missed it but didn’t see the reason. If you are going to a lower gear for acceleration and this is say a 2.76 or 3.23 you could keep it and swap out if you want to make a trip.

Saw this handy bracket made of 3 pieces of angle iron. Mounts to engine stand to secure the housing. On Scott’s Speed Shop channel Second pic a little dark but that it bolted up

Is that used in place of your $300 dollar tool and is it accurate? Guys in article seem to like it.

I don’t need it. Just want it. Always had street big block 4 speeds, and never raced, never had an issue with 8 3/4 and love the ease of gear changes. A stroker is a future possibility with a 5 speed though.

Can you even imagine sending a Dana that way? We’re using fastenal. Give them a try next time. Pretty reasonable, or Speedy if you are working in their zip codes. :thumbsup:

Mucho thanks

The reason I’m asking is to get a shipping quote on a stock 68 b body Dana

That seems to confirm my suspicions. Was that with the powr lok and drums? Much appreciated

Ive heard The b body ones are 50 more, and 35 more. Did you weigh a car unit or truck HD one?

What is the weight of a factory 68 - 70 B body Dana 60 with drum brakes ? I’ve been searching and can’t find a definitive answer but I’m getting the impression it’s about 250 lbs. Anyone know?

Great photos and thank you vary much ! No wonder these were removed so often. Man that’s some close proximity!

I saw those but didn’t know if they are just like the originals. This bracket looks like the bracket for the 11”, not like the one in diagram for the 10.5”. That one appears to have some bends, possibly for spacing it closer to the torque shaft.

I’ve ones that have added like below, looks like maybe tack welded on. Would be a positive to have it right or wrong?

Thanks, Yeah when Jeff mentioned he had some E body ones made me wonder if some parts were same.

Cool and Thanks. We’ll have a really good reference thread here for future questions.