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Cheap at twice the price. That old harness would make Smokey Bear blush. It was a fire hazard!

:rofl: :rofl:

Yep! That's a mess.

Contact @HALIFAXHOPS for a good one.

A test light on the starter relay terminals.

There should be a 360 cast into the block to the rear of the motor mounts. There is a machined pad on the deck surface, drivers side, just below the head.

Nope. 360's were 2 bolt but what ever. Hopefully Halifaxhops stops by and comments.

What engine is in your car?

It's electronic Ignition for sure but not Chrysler electronic. @HALIFAXHOPS what is this thing? Looks like a Ford.

It could have a Pertronix in it. I see non factory connectors on the coil and the OP mentioned that it doesn't have a ballast resistor. If it has 2 wires coming out of the dist. housing it probably has been converted. Time to pop the cap for a look see.

That's a voltage regulator you pictured. . If your car is a 67 and the distributor is original it will have a points type distributor.

No what I fixed is pnora's post. He said to unhook the vacuum to the distributor and try it. I fixed his statement by adding"and plug it" . You never just disconnect the advance hose without plugging it with a golf tee or the like. No reason to introduce a vacuum leak. Re-read post #9.

Best source? @HALIFAXHOPS

Fixed!

If it works, keep it. Probably better then a Napa replacement.

@Slantsixdan needs to read this thread. Comedy is a good thing. You know, there were good reasons why headlights were designed and wired the way they were for 75? years.

That regulator makes the alternator put out a set amount regardless of your battery state of charge. When your battery is fully charged, it just keeps on charging.

Wiggle the wires at the bulkhead connector and see if it starts.

Clean off the paint, install a star washer or a external ground wire. (or all the above)