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I like the aluminum, 2 bolt Mopar style. You will need a adapter plate (make one) and may need a adjustable push rod. Just use a adjustable proportioning valve to tune the bias pressures. Mike

Heat is your friend. Mike

I would like to see how it moves during suspension travel/steering before judgment. Mike

Lots of cars have less friction material on the rear shoes to accomplish the same results. Mike

It did the trick in my 65 Coronet steering gear. Been leak free for 4 years now. Mike

When I switched my 65 Coronet to a dual master system, the original MC studs were too small to cut new splines in the dual cylinder so, I used JB Weld and epoxied them in. Worked great! Mike

So, perhaps the shoe diameter more closely matches the drums on the front? Ahh the good old days of grinding/arcing the shoes to fit! Loved the smell of that asbestos! Mike

Ok. I should have phrased that less confusingly. Long lining always goes to the rear. It is the extra friction that makes the brakes "self energizing"! Mike

Are the longer secondary linings on the front VS the rear- where they belong? Mike

Calipers are quite thick. I believe some clearance can be had with some grinding on the caliper housing. Mike

You need to adjust the control valve assembly, on the top at the return hose connection. 2- 1/4" cap screws retain the valve. Loosen them a little bit and slide the valve front or rearward with a plastic hammer to center the valve. Do it running , off the ground, and remember that the valve is...

Try bringing the right side inner and outer tie rod ends closer together. Mike

Only on the return side. The high pressure side will blow the hoses off. Mike

Power brakes were always an option in those days. Mike

When I updated my 65 Coronet, I priced a rebuilt single and a 1966 dual MC. The dual was at least 5 dollars less expensive-on Rock Auto. Replumbing is easy. Just cut and flare the rear connection and plug the extra port on the brass block. I think your 66 block is different but, similar. Mike

Go with rubber and it will last the rest of your life and be quieter. Mike

Perhaps you could run a drill through the assembled items and get a new pin? If this is not a restoration, a bolt with self locking nut could be used also (grade 8 hardware). Mike

Put a cam in the pocket and determine that it will be contained in the pocket. If necessary, the pocket rim may have to be reshaped. A hammer with chisel and/or punch should do the job. Mike

Local hardware store or make one with holes drilled at each end for cotter pins. Use a bolt shank for the "pin". Mike

Sounds like it could be a bent spindle. Dukes of Hazzard car? Mike