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I like the aluminum, 2 bolt Mopar style. You will need a adapter plate (make one) and may need a adjustable push rod. Just use a adjustable proportioning valve to tune the bias pressures.
Mike
When I switched my 65 Coronet to a dual master system, the original MC studs were too small to cut new splines in the dual cylinder so, I used JB Weld and epoxied them in. Worked great!
Mike
So, perhaps the shoe diameter more closely matches the drums on the front? Ahh the good old days of grinding/arcing the shoes to fit! Loved the smell of that asbestos!
Mike
Ok. I should have phrased that less confusingly. Long lining always goes to the rear. It is the extra friction that makes the brakes "self energizing"!
Mike
You need to adjust the control valve assembly, on the top at the return hose connection. 2- 1/4" cap screws retain the valve. Loosen them a little bit and slide the valve front or rearward with a plastic hammer to center the valve. Do it running , off the ground, and remember that the valve is...
When I updated my 65 Coronet, I priced a rebuilt single and a 1966 dual MC. The dual was at least 5 dollars less expensive-on Rock Auto. Replumbing is easy. Just cut and flare the rear connection and plug the extra port on the brass block. I think your 66 block is different but, similar.
Mike
Perhaps you could run a drill through the assembled items and get a new pin? If this is not a restoration, a bolt with self locking nut could be used also (grade 8 hardware).
Mike
Put a cam in the pocket and determine that it will be contained in the pocket. If necessary, the pocket rim may have to be reshaped. A hammer with chisel and/or punch should do the job.
Mike