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Maybe a dumb question....do p/s boxes have the "worm gear" like manual boxes do? I remember tightening my worm gear slightly years ago to remove slop

Another tip... if the proportioning valve is stuck one direction, it turns on your "brake" light on the dash. I'm pretty sure you'll need the correct master cylinder and proportioning valve. It may be too late.... but what part wasn't available for the factory disc/disc? Calipers can be rebuilt

I just used wheel bearing grease in mine

what split?

Because of your cam, your engine vacuum is low. The engine vacuum is what gives your power brakes "power", but you don't have much vacuum anymore. You can add a vacuum reservoir canister or a vacuum pump.

I've never run a rear sway bar, but I think I see your problem. I looked at the Hotchkis and the Addco rear bars and both bend around the rear end "pumpkin". My first thought - Is there a way to cut 3" out of each side of the sway bar and re-weld it straight? Or maybe there just happens to be...

I believe you need one of these two https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-drum-rear?filterByKeyWord=brake+drum&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false There are two different widths....2-1/2" and 3" (roughly) as I recall. I also "think" finned was original, but not always...

Wait! brain fart.... not needed, my mistake. The main shaft length is different between power steering and manual steering (not auto trans vs. manual trans). You just need the collar without the PRNDL for a manual transmission and Tony's parts has them.

You will need the 1-year-only 1970 steering column, but I may have good news. If you can only find an automatic column with a PRNDL, you can modify it to work with a 4-speed. You'd need the top collar (without the PRNDL) and lengthen the main, center shaft (not too difficult)

Short Version - tighten those big torsion bar adjustment bolts you're looking at a lot more. The more you tighten those big bolts (righty tighty, lefty loosey), the higher your font end will be & the control arms will lift up off those bumpers as you tighten those 2 big bolts

Definitely yes, your front end can affect the rear end that much. Adjust those torsion bar adjusters...up on one side, down on the other side, or a combination until it's the height you want

I don't recognize that booster???

Is it loose where the shift lever attaches to the column? Can you post a picture?

MoparLeo has a good eye. I am not an expert on this, but there is a common brake conversion done on these cars to convert to 1973+ brake rotors, 73+ A-body spindles. Some of the conversions are done using Cordoba rotors and caliper brackets. "Maybe" the previous owner started to do one of...

You have power drum brakes front & rear (fyi). 1. Bleed (the air out of) your brake lines. One each brake, there's a little bleeder screw on each wheel cylinder (a little hole in the center of it). Spray those down BIG TIME with PB Blaster rust penetrant. Soak & repeat. Soak again and wait...

70chall440 & GTX John both have very good ideas. I'm going with TWO bad master cylinders as my odds-on favorite....but I REALLY like 70chall440's idea of just start burping air out of each connection, maybe 1 brake at a time and try to burp out air. I mean, if it's all new then nothing should...

Hmm...thinking out loud here. It sort of "sounds" like your steering coupler might be 180-degrees out???

Yes, the same. FYI- You can cut down a manual steering column center shaft & make your own "plastic shear pins" out of hardware store plastic nuts/bolts (plumbing section) for use with power steering.

What 4mulas said.....exactly what he said. No issues at all, but DOT4 is just high boiling DOT3. I "think" you're thinking of DOT5

Good information above. I have done this swap on my 70. As mentioned, the only difference in column is the center (main) shaft. It "telescopes like an antennae" so that it can collapse during a collision. The "antennae" is held open by two small nylon "break away pins". One half of the...