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Agreed. I used the Painless harness and integrated it with Holley EFI and it was exhausting. I’ll be using a Racepak Smartwire PDU next time.

What kind of car is it and how is it used? If it’s near stock, a factory style replacement harness will be a simple solution. Replacing one of these is far easier than anything the aftermarket has to offer. You could replace every harness in the car in a weekend where rewiring with aftermarket...

You’re twisting my words. I never said anything but an NGK was worthless and I even acknowledged that from a functional standpoint, they’re fine. I said from a tuning standpoint the Autolite is worthless and I base that statement on my experience.The dark black coating makes reading the spark...

From a functional standpoint, there’s no issues with Autolite spark plugs. Assuming you know the correct heat range, thread/tip configuration needed, it’ll light the mixture just fine. From a tuning standpoint, they’re worthless. I find them to be the most difficult plug to read out of all the...

Keep in mind that factory specs were established for the fuels available when these cars were new and were based on period technology. They mean nothing unless a combo is bone stock running high octane ethanol free fuel.

Having that understanding really helps in your case. From your description, the timing seems to be the likely issue. Recurving the distributor is going to be a must in your case. What that curve looks like has been the subject of lots of debate. Good luck and report back.

These timing discussions are always a **** show. Lots of inference being thrown around in regards to initial vs total timing. This guy is a complete newb by his own admission. You guys might want to elaborate between initial, mechanical, vacuum and total so he understands there’s a full curve...

I run the msd hemi tubes and then add the stock tube seal to it. Much easier.

I’m hooking it up to a configurable ECU so I can work with it either way.

Then that should work for my application. Thanks.

I would be interested in that. Do you have a VOM that you could use to check continuity between the wires in the plug in the off, on and resume positions? I’d like to verify it’ll work for me before I buy. PM with a price shipped to 61611 as well. Thanks.

I’m looking to use a cruise control lever to control some completely unrelated circuits. Does the OEM 4 wire turn signal switch basically contain an spst switch and spst momentary switch in them as the circuits suggest?

Low compression, 906 heads and 38 will probably be in the ballpark. Good aftermarket heads and decent compression and it’ll make max power at 32-35.

You’re absolutely correct and I agree as well. Given the fuel available then, these things should have been able to take more timing. What’s frustrating is reading all the people who still recommend these timing settings for aftermarket builds with more cubes, better heads, much larger cams that...

I don’t subscribe to that theory either given the large 170cc chamber and the relatively low compression. Besides if you listen to Garlits talk about early times when the first 426 arrived on the scene, he said once the figured out the 426 loves ignition lead, they really picked up.

It’s probably not a current offering anymore. It was purchased years ago and been off the car for several years. It’s a chrome plated square back IIRC.

I have a used Tuff Stuff 7509RDSP if anyone is looking for a deal. I went to a serpentine setup with a GM one wire setup.

While we’re on the subject of electrons, shall we start the Ammeter discussion?

Yeah, like $4000 rocker arms....

Lol, I’ve been hitting the practice tree!