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There’s a good chunk of your heating problem. You need more timing at idle.

I’m assuming the Vacuum advance is hooked up and functioning? Is it manifold or ported? How much timing at idle with the vacuum advance?

I used a right angle adapter and AN hose routed down and around. Not a big deal.

Just get EFI. I have an oil pressure safety that shuts the engine down if oil pressure goes below a set level. You can do the same thing with engine temp or any other metric you wish to monitor...

Lol... let us have our fun in the 101st thread.... One thing I’ve noticed is 195 degrees seems to be the magic number where people start panicking. For some it’s the 200 mark lol. That’s NOT hot. It’s the piss poor fuel in the carb that’s an issue at 200 degrees. We’ve driven EFI vehicles (not...

Yes, even with fuel injection. The oil pump is a missle dry sump pump and we machined an adapter for it to drive a cable drive fuel pump. Fuel pump is a MagnaFuel Pro-Outlaw 1000. Car runs mid 5s in the 1/8 mile and drives all around the Midwest. Even has air conditioning.

All mechanical here... fan, water pump and fuel pump. I don’t miss the screaming noise of an electric fuel pump or electric fan noise.

True, and they’re nice for cool down after a dragstrip run, but most electric fans don’t move as much air as a HD factory mechanical. Because of that, most people add a second and I’ve seen a few with three electric fans. Most people couldn’t wouldn’t even notice the 6 extra horsepower a...

Good point, Dan. One thing I’ve learned over the years is that most electric fans block more air than a mechanical at highway speed and most actually move about half the air they’re rated for. Also, check voltage at the fan and make sure the electrical circuits supplying them will carry the...

That’s overheating? Hell, I used to run a 195 degree thermostat in mine. I bet if you ditched the electric fans and go to a 18” seven blade clutch fan, it’ll cool right down.

The Classic center vent I have is fit into an original AC center dash panel. I’m using the original non-AC dash frame. I used the underdash vents at each end.

I appreciate the offer and the measurements. I’m getting by with a spacer and direct drive fan but I’ll keep looking. Thanks!

The dimension I’m interested in is the pump mounting face to Fan mounting face dimension. The 2947 measures 1.095 and I have two others here that measure 1.51 and 1.63. I need something that is in the ballpark of 1.375 or so.

Bumping this thread. Anyone know of a fan clutch that positions the fan between the stock clutch and the 2947? Stock clutch is too big and the 2947 too short.

I’m no super sparky, but I did successfully wire my entire car and my Holley EFI. I learned a bunch along the way. 1. Avoid Splices if possible 2. Use an open barrel crimp connector to splice if you can’t avoid it 3. Insulate all splices with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing 4. Buy the...

30amps is enough to burn up anything attached to it but might be needed for the surge draw. Any idea what burned up the first two fans?

So the relays feed the breakers and go into that large Relay??? I think I’m looking at that backwards... after looking further, I’d rip all that garbage out and start over. Those 10 cent crimp connectors are junk. No offense meant, but that wiring job leaves a lot to be desired.

What gauge wire are you feeding those with and are we using relays?

How’d the test drive go?

Mine lacked clearance between the fan and the lower tank. You can see where the fan blades hit the lower tank, dug in and bent, tearing into the core. I clearanced the tip Of the new fan blades to clear that area.