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Shroud for sure. It concentrates the “pull” of the fan through the radiator

The pump seems to be fine. The tiny air fuel leak sucking in air makes sense, but I saw the fuel boiling inside the clear fuel filter with the engine & pump turned off (after driving, I shut off the car, opened hood and looked). I’ve had vapor lock trouble with this car for years (got home one...

Stock fuel tank with dual outlet sump. Fuel pumps above differential (Holley blue - less than 5000 miles on it). 3/8” alumninum fuel line routed next to factory fuel line. Regulators on passenger inner fender. Fuel line wrapped in thermosleeve. From regulator, rubber hose (with thermosleeve)...

Fuel line covered in thermosleeve in engine compartment and along the frame rail

Pump over differential. Regulator on passenger inner fender. One passenger header pipe runs horizontally there & I plan to wrap it

Yes, the fuel dead heads at the regulator & I don’t have a return line installed. I have considered adding a fuel filter with a “vent nipple” to run back to the tank through the normal fuel line (i have a sump welded to my stock fuel tank with 2 outlets, so my factory outlet by the sending unit...

Yes. Regulator with pressure set at 5-1/2 psi & mechanical fuel pressure gauge.

Well, I can see gas boiling inside the clear fuel filter (just before carburetors) and my mechanical fuel pressure gauge acts weird sometimes (drops to 3 psi or up to 12 psi) and the car will stop running like it’s out of gas. Cooled off, starts right up

I’m running a Holley blue. I have a clear fuel filter and I can see gas boiling. I’ve insulated the fuel lines in the engine compartment and plan to wrap at least one passenger header pipe

I’ve fought vapor lock for years. I want to add a “cool can” for the fuel line. Any recommendations? Anyone have one they’d like to sell? THANKS!

Well, as far as I’ve ever found, only a factory intake, CH4B, or six pack intake will clear an air grabber setup. I’ve got 1/2” spacers on my carbs and the air grabber box hits the air cleaner lid (fyi), so there’s not a lot of room to play with

I just bought those anti-rattle rubber bands from Megaparts for $15’ish delivered

If I remember correctly, there's some play/adjustment in where the pin itself bolts in. Also, factory had sort of a "doubled over rubber band" jammed in the bracket hole where the pin goes as an anti-rattle device. I recently saw them reproduced somewhere for less than $10 and electrical tape...

When I bought my Road Runner many years ago, it had a light similar to this one under the hood, not connected to anything. That light is long gone. Now, I have this similar light socket. Is an under-hood light an option in a 70 Road Runner? Where does it get installed on an air grabber hood? How...

Why? They’re used to access the upper control arm eccentric bolts to do alignment (if that helps)

Mopar mark all day long. Factory rails are best IMO. It will save you HOURS of labor

Buy a can of flammable carburetor cleaner. Spay some down the carburetor throat while reving the engine up. Then, at idle, spay some of that carburetor around the carburetor base and any vacuum hoses. The engine will rev up if you spray onto a vacuum leak. The two screws you see in...

I prefer cork because they conform to any imperfections on the sealing surfaces. Some harder “performance” ones do not

Looks like the timing chain is getting into it somehow. Is there a ton of slack in the chain?

It will kill the car’s value. Build a 512, but keep the original motor & put a stock cam in it. Keep it on an engine stand