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factory paper gasket

Don't freak out. See if it's not that bad....timing chain or ignition maybe, or even a fuel pump. But, you might consider what you'd like for your next engine. You can probably find a 318 used engine to keep you driving this summer

My 2-cents?... make sure you have a good PCV valve and deal with any piston blowby you have

TOTAL GUESS - 2nd shift?

And "maybe" adjust the power valve. I think the rule of thumb is to run a power valve that is half your idle vacuum....so you need 13" Hg vacuum. And yes, the 6.5 is stock.

So.....you can either connect it to the 2nd un-used port as described above OR put a "T" in the one port you're already using

Here's a setup that is similar to what I used https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/my-in-dash-speaker-solution.29544/

Sorry this isn't more specific....I suggest you take off the left/right speaker covers and stop in a speaker shop. I think mine are something like a 3"(?) off-the-shelf round speaker. All I had to do was oblong out one/both of the speaker mounting holes (in the aftermarket speaker itself) and...

I don't know jack about Holley Snipers, but this "might" help. An old factory 413 in-line dual quad intake, with Carter carbs, is spaced correctly to use a Hemi N96 air cleaner and fit under your N96 hood. The 4 bbl lids have the holes in a different location (I think)

Yep, check for spark and that ballast resistor having voltage coming out of it into the blue wire. They burn out a lot

I haven't run points in a while, but maybe I can walk you through it? First, to test for spark, pull any plug wire and install any spark plug into it. Ground that plug onto a good engine ground & crank the engine (don't touch car yourself!) and you should see a spark. If no spark... 1. Make...

Yep...it's hard to understand your post. It "sounds" like you're saying.... Tail lights don't work when you press the connected, hanging loose, brake pedal button & you expect that is "understandable and expected".....nope, you've got a wiring problem there. The other stuff won't happen once...

Maybe there's a way to modify your existing window mechanisms, front and rear, to accept power windows? Otherwise, you might find an aftermarket setup that will work at Nu Relics. They're worth giving a call. From what I've read, you can use the factory power window switches and put a relay...

Honestly, I believe the factory front/rear power window motors are the same for a sedan as for the 2 doors of a coup (seriously). As far as I know, the only "odd ball" power window motors are in the back seat of convertibles (B & E bodies anyway, not sure about A-bodies)

Why? I've only installed roll controls after the distribution block. Is there some special need to put it before the block?

I wish I had somebody for you (I don't), but I'd suggest you call a few of the restoration shops in the suburbs & ask them "who does your mechanic maintenance work?"

Yep, try 2-3 bottles of red heet first (isopropyl alcohol), but it sure does sound like a vacuum leak or something weird happening with your choke maybe?

On my 70 Roadrunner there are two different possible trunk lids. One type has holes cut out underneath the trunk which locates the wing (I got my trunk lid off of a 4-door Satellite) & the other trunk does not have any holes underneath. Look under your trunk lid. If you have the correct lid...

Yeah, disks will fit backwards (as me how I know).

1. You are showing a mechanical water temperature sending unit. 2. The hole indicated by the white arrow is the correct hole. You might need an adapter or a different place to mount your temperature sensor if you want to keep the mechanical one in your hand. 3. The factory electric temperature...