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milkshake on the dip stick?

I've seen one used https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Pushrod-Length-Checker-7-5-8-7-Inches,225.html?utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwt-OwBhBnEiwAgwzrUqq27pV1TgMgW2PPJP7Sg-_kmkQ12viR6d_jtB3Q4eJdyhaZ2ZlkRxoCFFMQAvD_BwE

Lucky for us, vintage OEM new lifters and cams show up here. Pay a little more and sleep at night.

Two families of big block are B and RB. B's are "low deck" 350,361,383, and 400. RB's "raised block" have longer cylinders than the B's. RB's are: 383RB, 413, 426W, and 440 (I have never seen a 383RB). Many parts interchange between the two types, but your taller block distributor is not one...

The intake may have been cheap, but the original air cleaners aren't. I have a 1959 set up for a 383. Someone here, and I wish I could remember who, told me how and convinced me I could dial in the two carbs.

slowly processing and worse with weight added along with confidence in the driveshaft suggests the springs might have sagged jack the frame an additional 1 inch away from where the axle sits now and cut two blocks of wood to fit. Then drive it and see what it does.

under acceleration: front u-joint, under deceleration: rear u-joint. Have you crawled under it and put a gorilla shake to the driveshaft?

front u-joint, unless the driveshaft is a two piece unit, then it may be the hanger, that I don't know

carbs unlimited says 4401 carb is 1968 with a manual trans.

call a couple local machine shops. You might be surprised how little they might want to disassemble, examine, clean, and reassemble a long block. If it is rebuilt and fresh with no issues beyond light rust (doesn't take a lot to seize a motor) it should take only a few hours of shop time and a...

No scientific proof, but I have always believed fresh engines will seize from setting sooner than worn engines. Clean metal resting on clean metal.

A screw because it is a simple machine? That must go back to the first days of automobiles. I don't see how the cap and stud apply force differently. Aren't they both trying to stretch the shafts?

Being in Illinois, you can ship a motor affordably from many States west of you using Speedee delivery. I had a 500 pound 4 cylinder shipped 700 miles for $190 including the $50 Tommy lift charge. I was happy with the price. You might also ask the machine shops if they have one laying around...

I bought a Ford pick up once. It had one of those rebuilt motors, and with 18,000 miles on the clock, it cracked pistons. I took it to a local machine shop and said my motor is blowing oil. The lady behind the counter said you have broken pistons, and then told me how the outfit I bought it...

vehicle vintage and make?

It's not easy to find the right mechanical help. Could go to a drag strip and find a Mopar racer you might talk into looking at it. Is there a local Mopar club in Youngstown?

a quick search suggests a 1969 440 RR was 3/10ths of a second and 1 mph faster than a 383 RR in the quarter mile. (automobile catalog). 14.1 vs 14.4 and 97 vs 96 a proper tune up can yield a lot of missing performance. weakened advance springs or less than ideal timing rob noticeable power

Go with the five speed and a 410 rear, that'll give you the grin you're looking for and let you travel at about 3,000 rpms on the interstate

yep, brain hiccup. Before 327's existed it was some 4 inch piston in a sacrificially bored screamer. They'll make more

My Uncle's Anglia had a 283 bored out .060 making what they called a 301. Going from 3.875 to 4.00, the bore of a 327. It was good for drag racing only as the thin water jackets couldn't be cooled.