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That’s not a bad job on a stock crank but some of those chromoly cranks put up a fight!!

Great job! Nice looking engine!

Cal-Trac offers fully boxed, heavy duty perches as well.

I have a GV OD and love it.

ALthough not sport mirrors, the local mirror shop fixed mine up.

If you have 10* at idle with the vac advance connected to ported vacuum, you're not getting any vacuum advance being applied at idle, then when you romp on it, it goes from no vacuum to no vacuum and has little to no ignition timing. Lock it out at 34 degrees, (no mechanical advance)leave the...

I would look at the possibility of a rich mixture or idle and fuel collecting and igniting late due to not having the advance at low rpm. Do another experiment of locked timing (no mech advance and vac disconnected) at 34-36 degrees and see what that does. 48 total degrees at 3000rpm under a...

I guess with your application, you need to decide if your goal is mileage and driveability or performance. Then tune in that direction. If it's driveability, then all I would do is give it 5 to 10 at idle and reduce the vac by the same amount and see how that drives. If Haines built it, it's...

That's not a very large cam at all. My street driven 572 cam is .278/.284 @ .050 with 12:1static compression just for a comparison. I wondered how much advance your vac can allowed. If it's around 10 degrees, you could move from ported to manifold for a source and run around 20 degrees of...

It will run cooler with some more timing at idle. What's the cam duration at .050 lift? Have you mapped the entire ignition curve? How much vacuum is it pulling and how much timing is the vac advance adding?

If it's a heavily cammed engine, locked out timing will be a blessing. You'll love how much easier it is to tune the carbs by completely eliminating the nuisance of variable timing. These engines usually like a lot of timing at idle and will never need less than max power timing (34 degrees or...

You can buy rebuild kits for next to nothing with new pins and bushings. They're pretty easy to rebuild.

I dipped some doors and fenders many years ago. You can NEVER get that stuff out from between the folds of the metal. The doors rusted along the lower seams where it was trapped. Media blasting would be my only choice today.

The way to go would be having a fiberglass wing molded around the working mechanicals. Then you could run a steel shaft through the blade of the wing and contain the actuating rod within the upright of the wing (thinking superbird here). The go-wing could just use a rod coming up by one of the...

I don't who ever came up with the rod ratio but it's ridiculous to even think it's a consideration in engine design. It's someone's byproduct calculation to somehow compare what can't be compared. It's an absolute waste of time even thinking about it. You've wasted precious moments in your life...

Very nice Jim! I'm sure rod ratio was at the top of your consideration list when building this one wasn't it? (extreme sarcasm in case you didn't notice!)

OK, let's switch the discussion to the taillights and side marker lights too!! Are there any LED tail light conversions available that will replace the standard bulbs? Is anyone making aftermarket LED tail light conversions for Mopars?