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Others here know more….but if you have a driveshaft that’s the correct length and attaches that “trunion” (?) tail shaft, I think you’re in good shape….maybe the shifter needs changing? Maybe not? You need pedals, a tang (?) to weld on the frame to connect to the z-bar (linkage), make sure your...

Dr diff is the favorite here, but moser or strange axles are good too. I’m not sure about Yukon

Why are you pulling the motor? Not needed to replace the oil pan (fyi)

You will fail California emissions (if required) without a PCV valve

I added a mechanical temp gauge to the hole on top of the water pump housing with the "square drive" plug in it (big block). Your sensor could go there if you've got a big block

3psi sounds low for fuel pressure

I’m running Isky rocker and a hydraulic cam. Follow the adjustment order carefully and make sure you stay with cylinder #1 at TDC. I loosen the nut & put the pushrod in. Then, I twirl the pushrod with my left hand and turn the adjustment screw with my right hand back and forth until I hit the...

Yes, use the hole where the 3/8” square hole is. You’ll probably need to heat the area with a torch and use a breaker bar adapted down to 3/8” to remove the plug. You will need a brass adapter & it’s included with many temperature gauge kits

Well, all 383’s will be neutral balanced & a forged crankshaft 440 with small rods (‘66-‘69) will be neutral balanced also. However, “big rod” 440’s (‘70-‘73) and cast crank 440’s (‘74-‘78) will be externally balanced

Good question….surprise answer. In general, your engine will run better and more efficiently with quite a bit more initial timing advance….maybe 10-15 degrees (guess), but limit your total advance to 34-36 degrees to prevent spark knock. Since you only have a few degrees initial advance AND...

Yes - your question is confusing

There is a good point here.....trying some sealer is cheap/easy to try. If I had to do it a 2nd time...mill the intake

What is happening is that you're sucking some oil up out of the "valley" area and into the intake runners. The valley's oil isn't "under pressure", so maybe you're not burning enough to notice. If you think about it, the leak must be on the front or back (maybe both sides?) of the valley pan...

You are correct

You need the rods, pistons, rings, harmonic balance and possibly flywheel all balanced at the same time

Soak that sucker in Blaster for a few days and see if it frees up

Date is on driver’s side of block…BIG numbers, just look. All 440 cranks are forged ‘73 & older. No way to know if it’s drilled unless it’s bolted to a manual transmission. Six packs bolt to any 440

Your carb isn’t too big. Maybe a vacuum leak? Does the idle go pull-up & down? I suggest you put that carburetor back stock and adjust/modify from there as needed & I agree you need to advance your timing

UPDATED - your 1-2 & 3-4 shift rods are correct. 2. Put shifter in neutral 3. Look at the shift plates up inside the main body of the shifter. They are kinda round/curved and they have a notch in each one. Line those notches up. The factory service manual says to make your own sheet metal shim...

And you likely know, you’ll need a “drift” to install it. I think I used a piece of hardware store threaded pipe nipple with a screw on cap on one end. Grease & Tap gently until it seats, then drive it home more forcefully. You’ll need an impact to tighten that but for sure