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In general, put the transmission cooler at the outlet of the radiator's transmission cooler. If the trans cooler is large enough, a stand-alone unit with its own fan works even better. I'm not sure how big is big enough

1. Calculate your static compression ratio....be sure, don't guess 2. IF it is 8:1, you have 3 options. a. run it at 8:1 b. change heads c. change pistons 3. If the engine isn't balanced (or maybe even if it is) and the short block is fresh, then domed pistons seem like the cheapest...

Also, check to make sure some of your oil pan bolts aren't bottomed out (need washers) and not sealing the pan gasket. Happened to me....took a year to figure it out

3, 2, 1 It's basically a series of levers...longer pedal movement, but less force needed

I think you're fine, but you can always replace the PCV valve (cheap). Inside of the PCV valve, there's a little "pintle" which I believe is like a little weight with a point on the bottom. The point blocks a hole on the bottom (near valve cover end of PCV valve). When engine vacuum (or...

I have no direct experience, but for valve covers and oil pan, would locktight be worth a try?

As mentioned..... pick taller pistons to keep your compression ratio up since you're boring the block anyway. I've run 340/360 heads on 318's and the motors ran well. No idea on hp numbers though

These guys are all correct. I would suggest, even on a budget, to remove both heads and have a basic valve job, valve guides/seals and resurfacing done (basic head rebuild)...both heads. I would also inspect the camshaft/timing chain/lifters while in there.

My 2-cents.... I had a similar issue with some iron heads years ago. The machinist used a "super heli coil" (name?) which is about the diameter of a nickel. That black nickel has a threaded hole in it that fits the header bolts/studs.

I've had good luck with those clamps. I prefer adjustable pinion snubbers too if that matters.

Well, the one thing it would help is that I wouldn't be using the factory-style valley pan intake gasket...ONLY one pair of paper gaskets to seal the intake. I've done that once in the 80's before aftermarket valley covers were available. I cut up the factory valley pan & used a bunch of RTV...

Yeah, I modified the crap out of my Champion and the fan shroud to make it fit. It works though

You'll see a noticeable improvement with 3.91 or 4.10 gears, BUT you basically can't drive on the highway anymore. Sure, you can run 100hp-150hp nitrous on a stock engine

I'm guessing his A/C compressor is going out and he wants to bypass it like a non-A/C car (?)

These guys are asking the right questions. I would be inclined to swap heads instead of the cam.....or more gear if you don't street drive much....or a nitrous system

FYI - I replaced my rear main seal 3 times only to find out it was 2-3 oil pan bolts bottomed out.... washers fixed it.

Yep, works better than the original ever did

Make sure the Lakewood has the block plate. I'd also say make sure it has the offset pin for a 10-1/2" clutch, but you don't need it with an 11" clutch

That would require a track test....just sayin'

The 1970 six pack motors use the "big" connecting rods and a special harmonic balancer & weights on the flywheel or torque converter. There's "supposed" to be some other six pack differences, but not visible at all, nor do they add performance. It's "basically" a high performance (aka big rod)...