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Curious to know your thoughts prompting the oil change and the data comparison from afterwards.

The Mega blocks were all nice blocks. Wished I would’ve bought a half dozen more back in the day.

I have noticed variations in hardness but nothing that followed a specific year or casting number pattern and the factory blocks were all noticeably softer than the aftermarket blocks. My hone was an HP6A Diamond hone so it didn’t really care how hard the blocks were. The ductile iron sleeves I...

This X 2. Same goes for the cold weather 400 block nonsense. I’ve sonic checks those with results from excellent (.200+) to totally useless and tons of core shift.

This pretty much sums it up. The 9” needs aftermarket housings and pinion support to handle the same power a stock Dana will take. If you build an aftermarket 9” housing with heavy wall axle tubes and back brace it, the weight difference isn’t as drastic. I’m pushing 1200+ whp through a stock...

I currently run a factory 68 Dana 60 with a stock 3.73 sure grip. It’s got Moser 23 spline axles going 1.32 60’ in a 3950# car. The sure grip was rebuilt in 2005 and is probably needing it again. I scored a Ford truck Dana with a 4.10 trac-lock for $150. I cut ends off an 8-3/4 housing I had and...

I ran 12:1 on 93 octane for a decade on various drag weeks. Cam was 276/[email protected]. I sprayed it with a splash of 110 octane on top of that. Current 9.5:1 combo did Midwest Drags on 87 octane adding VP C16 once I arrived at each track.

Excellent info. I’ve only seen the adapter plate kits. I’m assuming the JW bell used is the BB to 727 version?

I’m currently running a built 727 and I’ve replaced everything with aftermarket internals to support the power level I’m at now (1200whp) and I’d do the same for the OD version. I’m looking to know if that aftermarket support is there for these units and what power levels they’re successfully...

Are there any good sources for education on these transmissions and their differences? I’d like to use a fully electronic version in a high horsepower street/strip application and control it with the transmission ICF on the EFI system.

It’s not overlap causing that, it’s intake closing point. Drop it back to a 110 degrees intake centerline and check the cranking cylinder pressure again. That cam is definitely on the small side for a 500”.

The Edelbrock cam you mentioned seems to be a go to for the 500” combos for drivability and everyone offers a version of it. I agree with NX that it would idle smoother on a 114 or even 116 lsa. EFI will give you the ability to tune it to run nice regardless.

Agreed. Especially if the block has a large chamfer as most factory blocks did.

It’s the Chinesium Theorum. Everyone wants more for less. We’ve peaked the curve and we’re on the way down to less for more, lol.

what you never find out is the story behind the story on a lot of these installs. No fuel, no spark, distributor 180 out and the cam and lifters get cranked for weeks straight before it ever fires... let’s not even mention leaving the inner springs in, having the wrong spring on it, coil bind...

Gen2

I’ve got a TF headed steel crank 400 going together to put in my roadrunner with the twin 76s. It’s making 1200+ whp now with the hemi. We’ll see how the wedge combo does.

As rpm increases, the amount of ignition lead required drops so let that guide you through your vacuum choices, lol.

Oh boy. Here we go again. In for the entertainment.

1.0 hp per cubic inch can be done in stock trim. With a good set of heads and the right cam, valve train and induction system, 1.5 should be very straight forward.