Search results for query: *

What 440 is saying sounds correct, although there were some aftermarket aluminum 318 4 bbl intake manifolds. I should know this, but I don't.... what size are the intake ports on a 273 engine? Weren't some of those 4 bbl motors? As I recall, the 340/360 engines have larger intake runners/ports...

Unless you MUST have the Centerline lug nuts, look at Cragar lug nuts or similar ones at parts stores. Otherwise, check e-bay and keep looking for some to show up. Hope This Helps!

Thanks everyone! I think BeepBeepRR found one for me on ebay. I appreciate everyone's help!

Thank you! Yep, without measuring it, it sure looks like my broken switch. So it seems like the '66+ plus A-bodies (& probably C-bodies too) would work.

I looked again and couldn't find those. I did find this NOS one for $20 from a late 50's/early 60's Mopar. It would work if the diameter of the threaded section is the same diameter. Anyone know?

Thanks Dave, it sure "looks" like the same switch in your A-body. In an online search, it "looks" like only the E-body ones are different (some sort of mercury tilt-to-light up thing...like a house thermostat...looks cool).

Oddly enough, I didn't find one on Ebay & didn't see a reproduction either online. I don't think this part is very rare or wears out too often....but mine is broke. I guess I might get lucky in a salvage yard?

I think I may have broken my trunk light switch (70 Roadrunner). It screws into a little tab on the inside lip of the trunk & has a little "L" connector. Does anyone have an extra one? I "think" I saw somewhere that 66-70 could work....but that's not confirmed at all. I would "guess" that...

Exactement! Vous parlez francais tres bien aussi

Allo Sylvain, je pense que il y a moins trois ou quatre ici sur FBBO, mais si vous etes en France, je pense que une nouveau est le plus bon....et aluminum parc ce que le postage. summitracing.com our jegs.com bon chance

That is A LOT of cam for a street car. The 292/509 cam is really on the ragged edge in my opinion, especially with power brakes.

I've also seen a couple cars that just welded up a 2nd set of spring seats onto an A-body 8-3/4"....but those are a little tough to find.

Craigslist?

"Z-bar" is just slang for....hmmm, I guess you'd call it a "clutch linkage bar". It's a tube that goes between a stud on the bellhousing & a stud on the driver's frame rail. It has one "leg" where the clutch pedal linkage attaches & another "leg" where the clutch release fork linkage attaches...

fyi - also need bellhousing transmission trans linkage shifter linkage shifter tunnel "hump" Z-bar possibly weld z-bar bracket on frame Z-bar hardware (pivots, bushings) possibly a steering column "collar" if you want to look original & you've got a column shift not sure about driveshaft...might...

I will throw out an idea.... why not find a 8-3/4" rear end? With that stall converter you mention in another post, it sounds like you want to go fast & IMO the 8-1/4" will last about 2 seconds if you start making any horsepower.

Any 361, 383 or 400 intake will fit & they made a lot of 383 4-barrel motors. Any year will work. Get a "square bore" (all carb holes the same size) for "square bore" carburetors (most common) or a "spread bore" (bigger holes in back) for spread bore carbs.

One little tip I might throw out if you end up using aftermarket parts..... when I was putting a hemi/6-pack pan & pickup on my motor for street use I found that the aftermarket pans/pickups are not exactly stock size. What I mean is that I found that I could NOT mix & match the pickup and the...

Just thinking outside of the box a little bit....why not put one system on a wide-open-throttle switch & the second system on a button? That way your "controller" is your finger.