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Just add as set of part store "slapper bar" traction bars and the problem will go away instantly

I'm not sure...but you may not need them. I think you're totally correct not to start taking things appart if you don't have replacement parts, that make sense. But, if you can go "half way" on this one. You'll need a shop manual. I suggest you remove at least one interior panel and look...

check the frame rails and anything "convertible" (trim around body, back seat, back seat interior, etc that is convertible-only). Looks like a nice car to me. If you like it and want to drive it, go for it. If you want to flip it and make money, probably walk away. I like it.

Yeah, I'm with R413 on this one. Unless it's something REALLY unusual, I think it was a factory radio delete & somebody added an antennae/radio after the fact. Speaking of which... is there a hole for an antennae on the passenger side? A no-hole fender (if that exists) might be worth a ton of...

1982 convertibles ain't a lot

Yes, he does. Any by chance, he's also a Nigerian prince trying to get his vast fortune out of the country too.

I'm sure you're not the first car to have this problem. Mopar had started using the "hidden" VIN's by 1966, right? Radiator core support & trunk lip, right? It's not a complete VIN, but it has all the last numbers, so that should be proof enough.

I believe Stanton is correct. Maybe those holes were for hooks to carry the part on the assembly line?

Yep, those pistons are installed backwards

True, but for small nitrous shots (maybe 100hp), you might be OK with just stock pistons. "Back in the day" I was always told nitrous requires forged pistons (preferably 2618 aluminum). Larger shots may require timing retards, special tuning, dedicated fuel system, o-ringed heads or head...

Nitrous is easier/cheaper and more suited for a street car in my opinion. Does he have forged pistons?

You know, I like it and I like the scoops & what appears to be a functional Ramcharger setup....not bad at all.

"Usually" that's the speedometer cable hanging up inside the cable housing. You could try some type of lubricant (e.g. graphite), try to eliminate any tight bends in the speedometer cable, or replace it.

I'm pretty sure that's part of the pivot. At least on my 70 it is & my old 69. If this is correct for a 67, here's my advice. 1. Make sure the "locking clip" is still there on your wiper arm. I will assume you're pushing it on far enough for the clip to engage over the pivot's "big notch"...

Geez....this subject has been beat to death on this board. I personally have not had good luck with electric pusher fans. It helps in traffic but you overheat on the highway since it blocks air flow. I've run 2 pushers, a big puller, 2 pushers + a big puller....all overheated. The best I've...

Most sound similar, but some cars have a hi-note and low-note. You can buy cheap ones that will work at a parts store like Oreilly or ask some people on here if you want an original one.

I don't own one, but I think 69L is correct...wrinkle black

Interesting stuff. As far as I know in 1970...."basically" (many options available) a. Belvedere = small motor, lowest trim level b. Satellite = bigger motor, highest trim level....Sport Satellite up to a 383 engine c. Road Runner = really big motors, lowest trim level d. GTX = really big...

Yep, now all you need is a rolling chasis & a motor..... nice score

All power steering fluid that I've seen is nearly identical. Honda has a specification on their fluid where it stays thin at a colder temperature than most other fluids, but unless you live in the Northern USA or Canada, it doesn't really matter. I'm sure there are exceptions, but I haven't...