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Then I think you'd have to measure those points off of a car of your same engine type with factory exhaust and measure it.

Factory? Several inches. Custom exhaust? I’d say maybe 2” (?) 1” seems a little tight to me

There was a post talking about this a week or two ago. It seems like the main header concern for small blocks was ground clearance on the driver’s side. Many/most have 3 pipes hanging very low. It’s been a while since I ran small blocks, but that sounds correct

I think both types of catalysts are inside the same catalytic converter….pretty sure anyway, not 100%

I changed my mind. These guys are right that the cats need to be as close to the engine as possible so they get hot. The factory ‘75 b-body cat would be a great place to start looking.

I’m not sure exactly, but I do know that “hi flow” cats are high flow because there aren’t much guts in them & often they don’t really work. If it were me, I’d measure under the car to see what kind of room I have to work with. Then, look for any type of OEM-style replacement cat, as large as...

You have the option to run Accel "shorty" spark plugs and Direct Connection used to make some "any angle" swivel spark plug wire ends......and a hammer if necessary

If yours is a 512" stroker motor with a roller cam & 2-stages of nitrous.....nope, too restricting. If yours is a relatively stock '78 400 out of a C-body....2-1/8" true dual exhaust would be an upgrade.

My 2-cents? If you're not building a show car, just build a semi-custom exhaust. You already have 2 ft of pipe coming off of each manifold, right? Assuming that pipe is at least 2-1/4" or 2-1/2", right? Just buy the exhaust you want (factory, pypes, TTI, whoever) and have a muffler shop...

I've been down this road. IMO, the only way to get rid of the drone is stock-type mufflers. You'll have to search to see what's available in 2.5". Walkers are relatively quiet, but are only available in 2.25" from what I've seen

Change just the mufflers. I've been through this myself

I've run MANY cars with cherry bombs, no mufflers, open headers (cops loved that)....but now, good old stock Walker or other "stock type" mufflers for me. If you want "no restriction" put a set of electric cutouts on it (seriously)

I agree with Jerry. I think you just need to make sure you get the right flange where it bolts up to the manifolds and let the muffler guys do the rest (they can probably get them if you let them know ahead of time)

There is some good advice here. My recommendation would be: 1. Stock style mufflers (Walker has 2-1/4" which I'm running) 2. hemi resonators as a couple above have mentioned 3. turn-down tailpipes (I believe our cars came factory like this in California) Don't worry, with a big block &...

I don't know your specific answer. I do think that 2" primary tubes are WAY too big for a street car, so go with smaller headers. Also, I have a set of angle-plug heads (for a new engine I'm building), so I've thought about this too. The problem area seems to be at cylinders #5 & #6 (at...

Well, that's not normal & I would have exactly the same concern as you. Yeah, no big deal to ream out some holes, but I would want to be sure the headers still lined up with the exhaust ports in the heads.

I agree with these guys that the machine gun tip is the BEST exhaust tip made by anyone ever. (Mopars are the bomb) I don't see why the 68-70 tips wouldn't fit, but they might be sort of "buried" under the car. They don't look nearly as long (at a glance), but they do have the same type of...

OK, I think your cam is reasonable & you have all the parts and I'm sure it will run fine. Thinking out loud on the exhaust, you might just think about some "hemi resonators". I've got stock-type Walker mufflers & have been considering splicing in some cherry bombs into the tailpipe area as a...

My 2-cents? a. catalytic converters are not necessary b. the cam is still too big for a street motor c. the Stealth heads aren't the best choice & the CNC porting is too expensive Sorry to rain on the parade

I think you can do it....double check those donor header tube-to-tube distance and go for it! In general, 2-into-1 tubes are more restrictive than single tubes (though I've heard good things about "tri-y" max wedge headers) and I think that's pretty obvious, plus the different exhaust back...