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I don't know the specifics related to your car/engine/radiator....but in general, if you say "the offset goes to the wrong side" it makes me wonder if the shroud is upside down?

I think you'll need to build some frame connectors, but I don't think that's a big deal

Or.... a solid motor mount, at least on the driver's side

All good advice above. Cut all the bolts/u-bolts, buy some new springs & bushings and re-install. I might be tempted to leave the seals alone if they don't look like they're leaking ????? Your call on that one. It will be very heavy/awkward, but you might want to get out all the old gear...

Yes, I believe you still need to grind valve reliefs in the block, but others on this site know more than I do.

Maybe a little help here. I have some 8mm wires & I've trimmed (inside holders) some factory wire looms & re-coated them with Flex Seal on the edges + engine paint. This made the holders a little wider so I don't cut the wires putting them into the looms. Years ago I did the same thing with...

My gut instinct is that both you radiator & torsion bars will be fine.

I've not done that, but here's my thoughts. 1. The heat of the exhaust will not hurt the parking brake cable. 2. The only "problem" I could see is wear on the cable or the exhaust but ONLY if you use the parking brake every time you park. 3. I see no reason why you couldn't raise the cable...

I'm no expert on this, but I think "street wedge" is a fancy sales term for a 426 wedge motor that is NOT a max wedge....still cool, don't get me wrong.

I assume you're doing a "numbers-matching show car". Do you mean the two rivets near the front leg of the vent frame? The ones that aren't visible when the vent seal is installed?

Yep, I've replaces mine with the "HELP section" variety pack ones from auto parts stores & have had good luck with them personally.

Valuecraft is the brand that Autozone carries without the ribs. Most parts stores have similar belts too.

Here's a little trick that might help. Many fan belts have part numbers that relate to their size (see example below). The "15" relates to the width/style of the belt & the "470" = 47.0" length, so this is a 47" long belt. (another example, a #15385 belt would be the same width/style as this...

I like the idea

Man...that sure "sounds" like you've got a bad rear bearing/bushing in your transmission. If you grab ahold of the front yoke, can you wiggle it up & down or side-to-side at all? It should be pretty darn tight. I've had the symptoms you describe with this problem before. I've also gotten...

I will start by saying I know virtually nothing about this except I've modified a factory tank before....anyway, if it's a street/mild track card, I "think" you'd want to just modify the factory tank you have (or find another one & modify it). Maybe a factory aftermarket gas tank (if available)...

Yep, I did that swap to my Roadrunner YEARS ago so I could get 1-piece rotors & it bolted right up and has worked just fine.

Easy for professionals with many years of experience, in a professional shop, with professional tools & plenty of people around to help.....everything looks easy on TV.....I'm a pretty decent mechanic and I'd never try to install my own quarter panels. If you're already an experienced body...

No kidding? GREAT link. I was about to tell Richard to pull out the old hole saw....that would've been bad advice after seeing themopardude site.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OE-Style-Speedometer-Cable-for-1962-1965-MoPar-B-Body/222118232353?fits=Year%3A1964%7CModel%3APolara&hash=item33b7474121:g:7TAAAOSwkNZUnvNO $148 on ebay